How to Make a Lectern
Michael T Collins makes an easily adjustable lectern. Dale Carnegie once said ‘there are always…
Submissions now open for the Mark Baker Woodturner of the Year Competition. Enter HERE for a chance to win prizes
Michael T Collins makes an easily adjustable lectern. Dale Carnegie once said ‘there are always…
In honour of our much missed and respected former Editor Mark Baker, we have launched…
Dennis Zongker talks you through the steps for bending wood for curved furniture Furniture makers have…
We show you how to do it right! Marking out components for cutting and shaping…
Peter Benson explores size and scale of carvings In this world where fashions seem to…
When building a woodworking toolkit, there are several essential power tools that make the process…
Mark Palma looks at expanding the use of wax in woodturning. Wax has been used…
Louise Biggs fixes and restores a wall clock case. I was originally called in to assess and repair a broken door from a clock case. Upon seeing the clock I found that several other repairs were needed to the case, with the clients requesting a solution to the wobbly pediment. From a distance it looked to be a resplendent little clock just the right size for their hall, and having carefully transported it to my workshop I took a closer look. Not quite what it seemed Alarm bells started to ring initially with the fixing of the pediment, which had a narrow peg and a rather large slot. The other major concern was the mix of timbers on show with pine (Pinus sylvestris), beech (Fagus sylvatica) and mahogany (Khaya ivorensis) forming the case. Although beech and pine are used within furniture, etc. it is not typical for them to be polished
Carolin Reichert describes the creative use of Valchromat in her bespoke music cabinet. I entered the competition for the Richard Seager Annual Award just before my graduation from the Building Crafts College. In doing so I wanted to challenge myself to design and build a piece to a real brief and to get the experience of working on my first commission outside the college environment. My design was selected and I was able to realise my idea for the Richard Seager music cabinet in the months to come. I was able to explore new techniques and processes and greatly benefitted from gaining extra experience so early in my designing and making career. The brief was to design a music cabinet that could house a vast collection of rare music scores. Learning about the award and the future owner of the cabinet, I set out to design a personal piece that would
Mike wood explains how to shape, detail and colour a familiar garden bird The wood pigeon (Columba palumbus) is the UK’s largest and most common pigeon and is part of the dove (Columbidae) family. It is largely grey with a white neck and wing patches so it’s clearly visible in flight. Its cooing call is a familiar sound in woodlands as is the loud clatter of its wings when it flies away. They are found across the UK in fields, woods and also towns and cities where they frequent parks and gardens. Wood pigeons are known to eat crops like cabbages, sprouts, peas and grain, but also buds, shoots, seeds, nuts and berries. The wood pigeon can be found across Europe, Eastern and Northern Asia. Even though they are seen of ten, unfortunately few of us take the time to look at them more closely. They are, in fact, a
Murray Taylor opens up the world of freeform chip carving, introducing a new tool and taking you step by step through a basic freeform carving and on to a project idea. In this article I will introduce you to the wonderful world of freeform chip carving, from the basic to the more advanced. I will introduce a new tool, work through freeform carvings from putting the drawing on to the wood to the completed pieces, and finally suggest some ideas for a project. An overall look at freeform chip carving Having so far been constrained by the formality of geometric forms, borders and rosettes etc., we can now explore freeform chip carving. Everything you have done so far will help you with knife control and fluidity of movement when carving flowing forms or the demands of carving fine detail. Your choice of subject with freeform is infinite – you can
Philip Greenwood looks at methods of re-chucking. In this part we look at a few methods to re-chuck the base of a finished item, or to hold an item. The cost can be very little, as most items to make the jigs will be in your workshop. Yes, a few do require you to buy additional chuck jaws to fit to your chuck, or other small items. One method I have not described here is a vacuum chuck; this is because I do not have one, but I know how useful one can be. The most important part of whatever method you use, is that it is safe to use and will not leave marks on your finished work, or you have wasted your time. Some of the methods below do require you to hand finish to remove a small pip in the middle of the base, but this is
In this two-part series, experienced turner Richard Findley looks into the techniques of turning bowls without a chuck. Why, and is it possible? When deciding on topics for this series, I cast my mind back to my own journey through turning. I’ve had many questions directed to me on my travels around the turning clubs of Britain. Something I am often asked by those new to the craft, and indeed something I queried myself is, “Do I need a chuck?” “No, but it makes life a lot easier.” This was the conclusion I came to when I started turning, so a chuck was pretty high on my to buy list. Hence, I have never turned a bowl without one. I know it’s possible to do without a chuck, as the title suggests. I know the theory of how it’s done – I have just never tried. Until now! I have decided to make two
Amber Bailey goes more or less round in circles to produce a simple fun jigsaw. Rather than having a go at a jigsaw puzzle, I decided to make one instead. It was also a good excuse to dust off my treadle fretsaw for a quick but satisfying little project that is perfect for beginners or those who fancy trying something a little different. What you will need Preparing the materials Painting your design Health & safety When cutting with a fretsaw you are required to hold your fingers very close to the blade – be wary of slipping. Wear hand protection if necessary. Alternative inspiration If you don’t feel confident in your artistic abilities then you could use a photograph instead. Be sure to secure the entire page down with spray mount or contact adhesive. Using a photograph is a great way for turning the project into a gift for loved ones. 8.
Paul Purnell looks at selection, storage, seasoning and straightening. When making your own walking stick, the first consideration is whether you intend to attach a head. If you are, you will need a straight shank. These are available to purchase via the internet and county shows for £3–5, but they vary in quality. Ensure you buy a seasoned shank free of woodworm. However, it is more satisfying to find and cut your own. Please remember that every tree belongs to someone; you need the landowner’s permission before cutting. This applies to common land where it is a criminal offence to cut and remove wood. The shanks cut and photographed for this article are with the kind permission of the Petwood Hotel, Woodhall Spa. Selection of shank Almost any tree variety is suitable for a walking stick shank. Most commonly used are hazel (Corylus avellana) that ranges in colour from silver
