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Router inboard trammel

There are times when you can get in a bit of a spin trying to rout in ever-decreasing circles. What you need is an inboard trammel

Wooden round cutouts on workbench with pencil marks.
An inboard trammel that has been used to create different diameter circles, as you can see from the pin holes in the MDF. It has been used to create a roundel detail on a pine fireplace. The centre pin rotation holes will be plugged to match the wood

The standard attachments that come with a router usually include a trammel point that fixes on a fence rod if the rods are detachable. This is OK if you want to machine a circle larger than the router base. Quite often we may want to create a much smaller circle, which poses a problem. One solution is to buy a ready-made template to use with a guidebush, but you are governed by the specific sizes provided and it costs money. So long as the required size isn’t too small, you can create the size you want by making up an inboard trammel, which is a sub-base with a pin as a rotation point.

A conventional trammel bar cannot create very small circles but an inboard trammel can

Making an inboard trammel

1. First cut a square of 6mm MDF the same size or larger than your router base. Now mark where the mounting holes in the base are and drill and countersink to take small machine screws. If no obvious mounting holes are present you may need to unscrew the baseplate and use the baseplate mounting holes to fit the trammel baseplate.

Wooden board with grid markings and holes
The cross line mark the centre of the MDF, the mounting holes on this Trend T5 router are marked from them as they act as datum lines

2. Mount the MDF sub-base after installing a standard 6.35mm straight bit and then power on and plunge cut through the MDF while supporting the router safely perhaps using the vice gap on the workbench.

Close-up of a router shaping wood surface.
The initial centre hole has been drilled by sitting the router on a sacrificial piece of polyurethane insulation foam

3. Unplunge the cutter, switch off and unplug the machine. Invert it and mark the required diameter from the edge of the hole to the centre of the intended pin mark. 

Person marking wood with metal ruler and pen.
The desired pin position has been marked from the edge of the hole to the pin centre

4. Remove the sub base and find a very small diameter machine screw, cut off the head and drill a small pilot hole where you made the mark. Insert the machine screw and wind it in with pliers. 

A stub of machine screw being wound through the board, you can use pliers but in this instance a narrow slot has been cut in the top of the machine screw to make it easier to turn

5. Refit the trammel base and you are ready to make some cuts.

Now mounted and ready to use, all it needs is a test cut to verify the diameter is correct. If not, then a new hole in a different location on the MDF is easy to do

Using the inboard trammel

In theory, the pin should give the required diameter but do test cuts to be sure. Drill a hole for the pin to sit in, plunge and rotate the router to complete a circle or arc ,depending on what you need to do. If the cutter needs to go right through use several passes to depth, contra rotate the router between passes to unwind the mains cable and extraction if fitted. Place a suitable sacrificial surface underneath and use double-sided carpet tape to hold the centre waste piece in place. 

Although this device creates cutouts it also produces circular pieces in the process that can also be useful. It is important that both parts of the workpiece stay in place though, as the cutter can damage the edges if something moves out of place.

Plunge router cutting circular groove in wood surface.
A shallow test cut after drilling a pin hole is enough to verify that the inboard trammel is ready to use

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