Tiny Turning

Mark Palma introduces you to the world of miniature woodturning

Woodturning is wonderful hobby that lets us make items from pieces of wood that other woodworkers would be forced to toss out. However, the lathe also turns some of us into hoarders who save every little bit of wood for ‘someday’. Well, let’s look at a way to turn those worthless scraps into fun and intriguing objects that may elicit a smile from those who hold them in their hand or take a gander at them.

Why turn small?

Beyond shape, scale is the only other surprise element of turning. So after you have made your family rave about your 1000th bowl, maybe it’s time to present something new. It also lets you stuff more things on a shelf if you are running out of space. All kidding aside, small turnings are great ways to learn fine tool control, play with pieces that you maybe wouldn’t try in full scale due to size limitations or material cost, use free scraps of wood (or other material such as offcuts of acrylic pen blanks in that box on the upper shelf covered in dust), and just have fun. Whenever I have a little stub left in a chuck I make something from it. Rather it is a nice capstone on the turning session to make a little something extra. I tuck these into small turned boxes as a surprise to the recipient.

Material considerations

Although you are free to turn anything, some materials turn better than others so let’s explore some considerations. The finer the grain pattern of the wood the better it seems to work in miniature. Large, open-grain woods such as oak, ash, elm, hickory and some exotics with wild grain, and woods with significant differences between early wood and late wood (such as say fir) may present challenges as the prevalent grain will chip away or just look out of scale in miniature turnings. Similarly highly figured grain rarely works well when viewed in small-scale turnings. It just looks off and out of place.

Tight grain, and even woods that seem ‘boring’ as being so uniform in colour, work well for small scale turnings. Maple, beech, tight-grain walnut, cherry, most exotics and all bits of scraps are great choices. I often glue these small bits to a secondary wood so that I can turn more of the scrap and not lose as much in the work-holding process. In addition to wood, other materials such as solid-surface counter top (Corian is a popular brand name), acrylic pen scraps, bone, antler, horn and tagua nuts (often called vegetable ivory) are all viable possibilities. For your first few projects do not buy materials, just play with scraps to develop your techniques. After you have determined if you find this element of turning fun, then expand your material choices. Anyone who has turned pens for a while has a box of ‘shorts’, the offcuts from commercial pen blanks that are too short to turn another pen but too big to discard.

Sometimes, despite all these suggestions, ‘breaking the rules’ works. For this article, a piece of southern yellow pine from a pallet was turned. It was almost perfectly quarter sawn and was saved as it was about to heat the shop in the woodstove. The strong grain turned out to be quite striking when turned into end- grain bowls, so experiment and find what you enjoy.

Health & safety

Toxicity and PPE

Always check the toxicity of the materials you choose and use appropriate PPE eye protection and dust and vapour masks. For example, breathing yew, antler, bone and horn dust could lead to chronic lung problems and a respirator is recommended.

Work holding

Do not go out and buy special chuck jaws (or, worse yet, a new chuck) just to try small-scale turning. Take a square or round scrap of secondary wood that fits in your chuck jaws and turn a flat end on to the wood. Then, on your ‘good’ scrap you want to turn, sand a flat by putting a sheet of 120 grit abrasive on a flat surface and getting a flat and sound surface. Make a conscious choice on grain orientation – in other words, do you want to have the grain running with the ways of the lathe (spindle orientation) or across the ways (face grain orientation, like a typical bowl blank)? I usually orient the sacrificial wood in face-grain orientation as end grain does not result in as strong a glue joint.

You have several glue options. Cyanoacrylate (CA) is a popular choice because it can quickly bond two surfaces together. CA, however, is brittle in its bond and any catch can cause the piece to break free. If it does so you probably cannot get it re-centred, so you will likely need to throw that blank away and start fresh. Two-sided turner’s tape is another option. Not all two-sided tapes are created equal, so buy the more expensive turning tape (not home centre carpet tape). The good tape requires pressure to bond, so either use the tailstock or a clamp to press the pieces together firmly. The instructions for the tape in my shop indicate that the bond gets stronger if the pieces are left clamped together for a few hours. The last option is yellow wood glue. I use this for any wood-to-wood bonds. Usually I make up a series of blanks, glue and clamp them overnight and have them ready when I turn small pieces.

Many chucks have jaws that will close on to 50mm blanks, so to start with you do not need specialised jaws. If you really like small turnings there are other chuck jaw options that can provide more flexibility. You can also make small screw chucks by running a sheet metal screw through a block of wood. Another option is to turn a spindle to fit into your Morse taper in your headstock, and true it up flat while it is running. Then you can glue your blank to this spindle and have a very true running drive. If small turning is something you enjoy, then invest in specialised jaws (or a dedicated chuck or collet system) for more flexibility. However, recognise that you can get by without them.

Lathe speed

First and foremost, never turn at any speed that feels unsafe to you. If you are used to turning larger pieces (say around 8in), you may gravitate to lathe speeds around 1000-1400rpm. That results in a surface speed at the rim of 2000-3000ft per minute. For turnings 1in or so, that same rpm range has a surface speed of around 200-400ft per minute, making for difficult turning. At 3000rpm your surface speed is around 800ft per minute. So if you are comfortable turning at speeds over 3,000rpm, this is not absurd. If a small piece comes flying off the lathe it may be startling, but probably not much more. If you wear a face shield the most that will happen is a moment’s excitement.

Tools

Whenever we start another turning genre our first reaction is to go buy a set of new tools. I would politely suggest learning if you like turning small items before selling the household silver. Many of the tools we use for larger work can help us with small turnings. Small drill bits create initial openings in bowls, vases and hollow forms. A 1⁄4 in or 3⁄8 in spindle or bowl gouge can do much of the roughing and initial shaping. A thin parting tool can not only remove lots of excess material, but also act as a skew or bedan to shape areas.

You can make many small tools. Many turners regrind dental tools for small work. For safety, remove the sharp probe on one side of the tool so that you do not stab yourself. Automotive ‘picks’ for removing O rings and gaskets are another good choice as they come with a handle for safety. Two of my favourite materials are Allen wrenches and concrete nails. Mismatched Allen wrenches seem to accumulate in our lives as more and more things we purchase come with instructions ‘some assembly required’. Orienting them with the points up and down results in a thicker cross section for more strength. A small rotary tool or a file can help you put any end you want on the wrench after you cut off some or all of the ‘L’. After initial shaping the edge can be sharpened by rubbing it on a diamond card to create a very sharp and useful tool.

Concrete nails are somewhat obsolete in modern construction. However, if you run across them they are wonderful. They are made from a fairly high-quality hardened steel and they can be made into great mini scrapers and tools. I have used them for years and they are sharp and strong tools. With any homemade tool resist the urge to use them without handles. We are turners so we should have handles on all our tools. Here you see some if mine with handles with wire and epoxy ferrules. I find that this technique lets you make a tool with the ferrule diameter that works for the tool, not being forced to adapt the tool to the available ferrule. That seems even more important with small diameter tools.

Some people also use old screwdrivers and files. If you are going to use files, please go through the process of softening the metal and tempering it into an appropriate hardness range, as files are far too hard and brittle to be used without heat treating. Screwdrivers seem to vary widely in steel quality and hardness so I typically do not use them.

Commercial small tool sets

For those of you who insist on using this as an excuse to buy tools (author included) there are several excellent choices. If you like to use traditional tools, several manufactures make mini tools either sold in sets or sometimes individually. I own the Sorby tool set and find that about half of them are very useful in my shop (and half gather dust). The parting tool, mini French curve scraper and 6mm gouge are used frequently. Sometimes others get pressed into service, but the three mentioned can do a lot of work. The Sorby mini tools have the same high-quality steel and machining as their larger cousins and work very predictably in the hand. I find it is the same movement and positioning as full-sized tools when cutting even the smallest pieces, which makes for fun turning.

Easy Wood Tools makes a Micro Tools set consisting of a round (Ci5), square (Ci6) and point or detailer tool (Ci7). They each use very small cutters (the round one is the same as the one used on the hollowing tool and is a favourite of the author). The round tool can hollow small bowls, shape outsides of small pieces, and act as both a gouge and a finish scraper. It is a natural tool for to reach for which to reach for the bulk of your turning. The detailer uses a very sharp pointed tip that has a lot of applications in small turnings. You can use it to hollow out very small turnings, add small details, turn mini beads, shear scrape, and even part off small turnings. The tip is razor sharp so treat it with respect and store it safely so it doesn’t get damaged or chipped. The square turner can rough wood, shear scrape, act as a scraper to refine curves and shapes, create crisp corners, and even create little grooves with the sharp corners. A replacement cutter with a radius is available and extends the utility of this tool. The radius end is more user friendly and allows you to clean up your work like you would with a scraper. The small arch creates a single point of contact between the tool and the work and really makes a difference.

Even turners who usually scoff at carbide insert tools will find that these earn a place in any shop on their merit. If you are using acrylic pen blank scraps the negative rake inserts from Easy Wood Tools are a must. They are available for all three of these tools and work on both wood and other materials such as acrylics and other resins. The negative rake geometry results in less chipping and break-out with these fussy materials. I really like them for stress-free turning. People marvel at the little plastic pieces that you can turn with these inserts.

Health & safety

Commercial small tool sets

For those of you who insist on using this as an excuse to buy tools (author included) there are several excellent choices. If you like to use traditional tools, several manufactures make mini tools either sold in sets or sometimes individually. I own the Sorby tool set and find that about half of them are very useful in my shop (and half gather dust). The parting tool, mini French curve scraper and 6mm gouge are used frequently. Sometimes others get pressed into service, but the three mentioned can do a lot of work. The Sorby mini tools have the same high-quality steel and machining as their larger cousins and work very predictably in the hand. I find it is the same movement and positioning as full-sized tools when cutting even the smallest pieces, which makes for fun turning.

Easy Wood Tools makes a Micro Tools set consisting of a round (Ci5), square (Ci6) and point or detailer tool (Ci7). They each use very small cutters (the round one is the same as the one used on the hollowing tool and is a favourite of the author). The round tool can hollow small bowls, shape outsides of small pieces, and act as both a gouge and a finish scraper. It is a natural tool for to reach for which to reach for the bulk of your turning. The detailer uses a very sharp pointed tip that has a lot of applications in small turnings. You can use it to hollow out very small turnings, add small details, turn mini beads, shear scrape, and even part off small turnings. The tip is razor sharp so treat it with respect and store it safely so it doesn’t get damaged or chipped. The square turner can rough wood, shear scrape, act as a scraper to refine curves and shapes, create crisp corners, and even create little grooves with the sharp corners.

A replacement cutter with a radius is available and extends the utility of this tool. The radius end is more user friendly and allows you to clean up your work like you would with a scraper. The small arch creates a single point of contact between the tool and the work and really makes a difference. Even turners who usually scoff at carbide insert tools will find that these earn a place in any shop on their merit.

If you are using acrylic pen blank scraps the negative rake inserts from Easy Wood Tools are a must. They are available for all three of these tools and work on both wood and other materials such as acrylics and other resins. The negative rake geometry results in less chipping and break-out with these fussy materials. I really like them for stress-free turning. People marvel at the little plastic pieces that you can turn with these inserts.

Turning techniques and tips

Remember that you are doing this to have fun and you are using scraps, so don’t get too hung up if you wreck a few pieces before you get the technique down. Some people make careful measurements off of measured drawings and use precision tools to create very accurate scale pieces. Small callipers and an architect’s triangle ruler can be helpful if this is your goal. I just turn them for fun and the smiles that they bring out in others, so I just eyeball shapes, scale and proportions. Use the approach that fits your desired outcome. In terms of shapes, turn what you like to turn, but consider simple shapes for your first few projects. Bowls, plates, vases and candlesticks are easier than scale reproduction furniture. Small lids are hard for people to grasp and put back on small boxes and containers. Most importantly, these items are not suitable for children and present a choking hazard. Make sure the recipient knows they need to keep kids safe.

Before turning your lathe on, make sure the material is mounted securely and, if possible, use tailstock support. If you have a smaller toolrest it is beneficial to use it for this project since it will be easier to locate it near to the work. Spin the lathe by hand and make sure everything is clear of the toolrest and secure. Start with the variable speed control turned down and increase speed gradually to see how the work and the lathe respond to the higher speeds you will be using (most of the time many of us do not use our lathes at high speeds).

I usually use a parting tool to make a little safe zone next to the chuck so that any corners on the blank are removed and I will not need to use a gouge too near to the chuck. Next, bring the work to round. I either use the parting tool (since it is in my hand already) or a spindle gouge. Then I shut off the lathe, move the toolrest closer and adjust its height so that the tool will be at centre for the finer work. Unlike larger pieces, rarely will you reverse the piece halfway through the turning, so both the inside and outside are completed with your initial holding plan before parting off the lathe.

With hollow forms, vessels, bowls and other similar projects I start by developing the outside shape. A small spindle or bowl gouge works well for this rough shaping. Then a small parting tool or other sharp-tipped tool is used to just establish the bottom edge of the piece. I usually just make a small groove so I get the overall height and proportion close at this stage. Next, any details can be added to the exterior of the piece. Elements such as burn lines, raised rims, cove, and any other details work best while there is additional support available. Then the top is faced off with a small gouge and any interior hollowing can begin. For vases and hollow forms a drill bit is helpful to set depth and begin hollowing. Rather than hold the drill bit in the tailstock I prefer a pin chuck that I hold manually. Mine was made from an extra chuck, a bolt that fits the chuck threads and a scrap of wood. If you have an old Yankee drill they are superb for this purpose. You can also hold a drill bit in locking pliers. Some masking tape around the drill bit can help as you can easily drill too deep in a hurry.

Next I use a tiny scraper to remove material from the interior. For bowls a French curve style seems best, for other shapes sometimes you need to make one for the task. It is all part of the experience. You can use small tools to measure wall thickness if you want (or if you are making pieces to a precise scale). If the piece is smaller than a finger no one can really tell wall thickness so you may have more latitude than you think. Remember, you are often working in increments less than a millimetre and the work is spinning at 3,000rpm. A very small cut may remove more material than you realise. I stop the lathe often and check where the tool is really cutting as the difference between perfection and disaster is very small. We all make mistakes so don’t feel bad if you have to start over. The material was probably free so you only lost some time (and gained some knowledge and experience).

If you like friction finishes you can do that on wood pieces. I just wipe on some oil and wax finish and leave it at that. With the nested bowls I make the largest first, then size the smaller ones off that piece by eye. Part of the challenge is seeing if your eye- hand coordination is working as you intend. Sanding starts with 220 grit and goes up from there. With the acrylic pieces they are wet sanded after 400 grit to get a smooth finish. Then some plastic polish is used to make them mirror smooth.

Gallery

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARK PALMA