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Tips for Using a Wood Plane

Are you struggling to plane a straight edge? Is your wood plane ‘biting’ the wood? Want to know more about how to sharpen a wood plane? We share our top tips for how to choose, use and maintain a wood plane, so you can achieve great results every time.

Why a wood plane?

Look in any woodworker’s workshop and you will almost certainly come across a selection of wood planes, resting on a shelf or hanging on a wall. An enjoyable tool to use that can consistently deliver impressive results, it is little wonder that the venerable wood plane is considered a staple of any woodworker’s tool collection.

What is a wood plane used for?

Wood planes are instruments of precision. They are used to remove strips of wood, leaving a level surface as a finish, for further planing, crafting or for fixing to another edge. They are commonly used in all aspects of wood working – think shaving a door edge to make it fit a frame, or slimming down the back legs of a chair. Like any hand tool, wood planes need care and maintenance. All wood planes are prone to blunting, rusting, general abuse, and often get left in the toolbox when they give disappointing results. There is lore and legend surrounding these tools that goes back centuries, but these simple common-sense steps are all you need to achieve a reliable wood plane that will deliver results time and time again. So, here are my wood plane dos and don’ts, straight from the workshop.  

Buying a wood plane

Most tool shops now only seem to stock cheap wood plane models that often lack the performance of more expensive varieties. Remember, if looked after well, this tool will last you a lifetime, so it is worth investing good money on a good tool. Find a reputable tool shop, or buy online – a larger offering will enable you to make a more informed choice.

What makes a good wood plane?

  • A wood plane should have a cast iron body; pressed steel or aluminium are not ideal. They don’t have the weight nor the smooth work surface required for good performance.
  • Wooden handles tend to be more pleasant to hold than plastic, though this is a matter of personal preference.
  • Your new wood plane may not be ready to go ‘out of the box’, and likely will need to be broken in.
  • The blade is the most critical item – very old or vintage planes normally have carbon steel blades which give a very good sharp edge. More modern planes tend to have steel of an unknown quality – unless they are an expensive model.
  • Superior replacement blades are available if you wish to upgrade your blade.

Where to buy a wood plane

With these fundamentals in mind, do your product research. Decide on which wood plane you need, look into what products are on the market, and find out where they are available – shops have the advantage over internet purchases of enabling you to assess and get a feel for the product. So don’t rush! Take your time to make an informed decision.

Two different types of plane blades
An original carbon steel blade (rear) and a modern, much thicker, high-quality replacement (front)

How to take apart a wood plane

Wood planes are designed with a great amount of adjustments. As such, they are put together with screws, threads and dials. To dismantle a wood plane, simply unscrew the various dials, starting from the top, and making your way to the bottom. This is a valuable exercise for familiarising yourself with the various components, and how they work together. Ensure that you place each piece down in a way that will remind you of how to put it back together – take notes or photos as a reference for putting it back together.

How to sharpen a wood plane

Learning how to sharpen your wood plane blade is crucial for achieving a safe tool that works as it should. Once sharp, your wood plane will cut decent shavings and deliver superb results. The simplest and most reliable method is to use a modern diamond plate with lapping fluid – this helps to lubricate the steel moving across the sharpening plate.

Sharpening technique

  • Flatten the end section (this is the bevelled end which does the cutting) of the blade back until it is level right to the edge.
  • Use a honing guide with the correct cutter angle, which is marked on the side. Once correctly setup, run the blade back and forth until the edge is completely honed to the edge meeting the back of the blade. 
  • Run the edge over a block of MDF (medium density fibreboard) strip and grain upwards using some metal polish. This will remove the rough edge created by sharpening and polishing the edge.

Your sharpened blade is now ready to use.

Sharpening a plane blade with a diamond plate
A honing gauge and a diamond plate are the best combination for easy and accurate sharpening

Installing a wood plane blade

  • Place the cap iron on top (the part that holds the blade in place), so the leading edge is just behind the blade edge. Tighten the main screw.
A cap iron mounted onto a blade
The cap iron is positioned just behind the blade edge. This produces a fine cut, and enables shavings to escape easily
  • Place this assembly back on to the frog – this is the metal sheet that the blade sits on. Make sure the projecting peg that moves the blade assembly is poking through the small hole in the blade. Fit the lever cap and snap or screw it down. 
  • Look along the base of the wood plane to check how the cutting edge protrudes out of the bottom. It should barely show, and have an even edge right across the width of the wood plane body.
  • The big thumb wheel behind the frog assemble can be used to withdraw or bring forward the blade. Use this to make accurate adjustments until the blade is just visible.
  • You can tilt the blade left or right by pushing the lever at the rear; this allows you to achieve an even cutter projection across the width of the wood plane.

How to use a wood plane

If you want your wood plane to deliver results, then using it properly is absolutely crucial. As with all tools, this not only ensures that you get the results you want; it also ensures your safety when using tools that can otherwise be dangerous.

Good wood plane technique

A finished level surface is the result of a good wood plane technique. This is more or less essential for ensuring that each ensuing stroke creates a flat edge every time – one curved or wonky stroke will lead to disappointing results further down the line. Practising on spare pieces of wood is a great way to hone your technique without sacrificing your finely crafted wood article. Let’s imagine that you are making a chess board, and that you need to flatten an edge.

  • Hold the chessboard firmly in a vice or portable workstation jaws. Covering the metal vice jaws with wood blocks or layers of cardboard can prevent indentation in your chessboard.
  • Your working stance is important. Don’t hunch over your work, and adopt a secure stance with your legs placed far enough apart, one behind the other.
  • Start at the beginning of the cut with pressure on the front knob and push the wood plane forward. 
  • When the wood plane is further along the stroke, swap your hand pressure to the rear handle, or ‘tote’. This will avoid excess cut at either end that will result in an unwanted curved edge.
  • Once the stroke is complete, return to your original position to begin another. Before cutting, make sure the blade sits in front of the wood edge (so that you can see the blade from underneath), and the front of the wood plane is sitting flat on the wood surface.
  • The first strokes may not take much wood away, but be patient and do several strokes as the blade cuts more consistently from end to end.
  • Check the result by looking along the edge, or placing the edge of a steel ruler on the planed surface for reference.
a planer on a piece of wood with some shavings
Start a plane stroke with more pressure on the front knob. Towards the end, shift pressure to the rear handle

How to check for a level planed surface

To check that the planed edge is flat, you can use a try square to see that it runs at 90 degrees to the adjacent ‘good’ face.

  • At several points along the length of the planed surface, sit the try square on the corner of the two surfaces. Any off angles will be easily visible.
  • To correct any inconsistencies, plane again whilst tilting the wood plane slightly to correct the cut.

To plane along both the length and width of the wood takes practice, so don’t be disheartened if you make a mistake. Again, the best way to practice is to give it a go on a similar piece of wood that’s going spare or is an off cut.

a set square on a piece of wood
Use an accurate square to check the edge is perpendicular from one end of the board to the other

That is a basic breakdown of how to plane a piece of wood and check your results. Give yourself plenty of time so you can really get your eye in and focus on the task.

In summary

We hope this has been a useful guide to show you how to buy, setup and use a wood plane. They are superbly versatile tools that are enjoyable to use. With good setup, user technique and maintenance, a nifty wood plane will ensure that your wood surfaces are flat and square – ready for gluing, further planning, or polishing off for that distinct mark of maker’s excellence.

Just remember – practising is the key! Plane and simple.

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