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How to Make a Sledge


Anthony Bailey shares the plans for an easy-to-make laminated sledge

Girl playing with snow on sledge, winter fun.

I can’t take the credit for this design. My father-in-law, Robert Fordham, a very practical man, ex-Army Para and Engineer, built the original sledge many years ago when our four children were young. Every once in a while it snowed in winter and we had many fun-filled hours, everyone taking it in turn to be pulled across the snow covered park.

This new version is built from standard PAR (planed all round) softwood with ash for the runners: this timber is much tougher and can be laminated and bent to shape.

You will need

Wood cutting list:

  • Runners: 2 @ 1150 x 32 x 12mm
  • Runner supports: 2 @ 870 x 50 x 22mm
  • Uprights: 6 @ 260 x 50 x 22mm
  • Cross braces 3 @ 300 x 50 x 22mm
  • Lower braces 2 @ 310 x 50 x 22mm
  • Side seat supports: 2 @ 830 x 50 x 22mm
  • Seat slats: 2 @ 830 x 120 x 12mm
  • Seat slat: 1 @ 830 x 60 x 12mm

Lengths are slightly oversize for some components

PlanDownload

Making the sledge

Cutting wood with a mitre saw in workshop.
1. Make up a cutting list and cut to length all components with square ends, i.e. not the bevel-ended sections that make up the side uprights. Use a length stop for consistency. The bottom rails are left overlength at the front to allow for trimming when fitting the runners later on
Measuring and drawing with pencil and ruler on paper.
2. Using the plan dimensions, draw out a rod (a template) of the end elevation, making it full size, which will allow you to get the angles and lengths of components correct. Set the angle on a sliding bevel and use this to mark a test piece
Close-up of a mitre saw angle gauge.
3. Set your crosscut saw to the angle on the sliding bevel, make a cut and check the result. When you’re happy with it, cut all the side uprights and the end crosspieces
Hand holding wooden pieces on a table
4. Check the cut lengths against the rod and trim again if necessary. Make sure all these parts are prepared before moving on. It may pay to have several extra parts in case you make some mistakes later on
Person using a wood router on wooden plank.
5. Use a router, straight cutter and homemade T-square to machine the half-lap joints in the rails as a pack, all clamped side-by-side. Move the T-square across to widen the slots until the final width is reached
Measuring wood with a precise straight edge tool.
6. Check the fit using one of the blank side uprights. It needs to be a good fit in order to resist any tendency to twist
Cutting wood with a bandsaw
7. Use the bandsaw to cut the joints at each end of the uprights. Again, make sure you get a good joint fit. Do a test cut first to check the fence is correctly set
Person using clamp and drill on wooden frame.
8. Now glue the half-lap joints using water-resistant PVA. Clamp the side assembly together and screw using short 4mm diameter Pozi headed screws which need to sit in screw cups. These are easy to obtain at any good DIY store. They look good but more importantly, they prevent the softwood from crushing, or the screws tearing through
Woodworker using hand plane on wooden frame
9. Set one side frame at a time in the vice and plane a bevel on the lower rail. Note each side has the opposite bevel so mark which is the outside of each before starting. Check the planed bevel angle using your sliding bevel
Person assembling wooden chair with power drill.
10. Glue and screw the crossrails to the sideframes. Note how the sledge splays out towards the base for stability. Once the glue has set, remove all screws and screw cups, sand carefully all over and apply two coats of a suitable wood finish such as Sadolin. Refit the screws and screw cups
Carpenter marking wood for furniture construction.
11. Hold a runner against the sideframe and mark where the lower rail needs to be trimmed
Carpenter using jigsaw to cut wood precisely.
12. Using a jigsaw, cut the marked curve. Repeat on the other sideframe. If necessary, use a spokeshave and sandpaper to neaten up the curve
Drilling a hole in wood with bit.
13. The runners need to have recessed screws but in order to do this correctly, use a proper counterbore that creates a neat recess. Take care not to go in very far though
Drilling screw into wooden plank close-up
14. Glue and screw the runners in place so the heads set in neatly below the surface. The ash doesn’t really need any additional finish as it will get rubbed off when in use. You could use a clear wax to help it go faster!

Further Reading

Types of Wood Finishes

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The Woodworkers Institute

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