Derek Jones put a combination of old and new tools to the test to create a quick and easy method for inlay and cross-banding
In this article I will examine some of the more refined applications that a well-tuned router plane can undertake. In the process we’ll cover one or two other little accessories that complement this addition to your tool collection and take a look at how they might be employed to simplify the process of making your own inlay from scratch and adding it to your work.
The router plane is used extensively to create housings in a straight line and, with a parallel fence attached, it becomes an accurate tool. It takes a bit of getting used to though as the operator has to focus on forward, lateral and vertical motion simultaneously. Master this and it’s a short step to following a curved profile of a constant radius. While this does have limitations, mainly because of the shape of the tooling for tight curves, there are some real benefits at the larger end of the scale such as rebating the edge of a table for a cross-band inlay.
Observing the direction of the grain in relation to the direction of the cut is paramount and on a solid table top you will want to section the top to work the edge in opposite quarters and swap the fence from left to right on the base of the tool.
Two points are better than one
Adapting a parallel fence so it can track a curved edge requires having two points of contact with the fence and working edge. I have adapted a marking gauge to function in this way. It’s not the most swanky tool in my cabinet but it works a treat and goes to prove that sometimes serviceable doesn’t have to be sophisticated. To set a cheap gauge to work as a cutting tool rather than a scribing tool, file the pin to a knife edge in the shape of a rough lozenge. Mine has seen a lot of reshaping over the years and still works.
Start by setting the width of your rebate and cut a line around the edge of the board maintaining constant contact with both points on the gauge against the edge of the board. Roll the gauge away from you or towards you as you adjust the angle of the knife blade to suit the grain. As you work around the curve, cut across the grain. Make several light passes rather than a single heavy one. If the curve on your workpiece ends abruptly, then pack it out with a scrap to support the contact points on the gauge.
It’s not the most swanky tool in my cabinet but it works a treat and goes to prove that sometimes serviceable doesn’t have to be sophisticated.
Router plane finesse
The parallel fence on your router plane functions in exactly the same way. That little wavy bit on the back isn’t just for show, reversed on the stem it can now follow a curved edge. At first it might be a good idea to set the width of the rebate slightly less than the finished dimension and similarly the depth of the cut. This will give you a chance to feel how the tool is cutting as you track across the direction of the grain. When you’re happy with things, set the tool for a final pass and complete the rebate. To stand any chance of success the tool will have to be razor-sharp and a little wax on the base will help.
One-step template method
A quick and easy method for cutting cross-banding veneer is to use the workpiece as the template. It helps of course if you can find a square edge that will enable you to reference a good knife blade. Start by cutting the outside of the curve first onto your chosen sheet of veneer. Then tape the same sheet of veneer to the top of the workpiece in place and use the marking gauge to cut the inside curve. Cut the strips overlength and trim them to fit when you have made a few. Tape them in place as you go or simply number them with a starting point to glue down later. This method works better if you use the same section of the curve to mark and cut the veneer; that way, if there are discrepancies in the shape, the veneer section will still be a perfect match.
Dual-purpose tools from Veritas
The little set from Veritas shown below is a great combination of marking and cutting tools for adding inlay and stringing to your projects. In its simplest form it can be used to draw layout lines with a pencil. The needle point is very fine but will leave a mark if you apply too much pressure. If you can lay your hands on some of those rubber adhesive blocks from your local glazing shop, they make for a great barrier. Swap the pencil holder for the knife attachment and you can use the same setting to cut the veneer and scribe a line for the inlay. Marking out cross-hairs on both parts helps to line things up. The knife is reversible so you have a choice of bevel inside or outside of the curve.
Waste removal
You could hatch out the waste with a router plane if you want to but, to be honest, I’m not a slave to any process and in this instance a powered router has the advantage. It copes with awkward grain a lot better than an edge tool and as you will need to cross back and forth across the area it makes perfect sense.
At just over a millimetre deep you can achieve great control freehand and trim to within a millimetre of the line. These fishtail carving chisels are the perfect tool for cleaning up to the line. The curved edge works in your favour reducing the risk of undercutting the edge of the rebate and lifting the surrounding material. You can slice round the perimeter or rock the edge of the tool from heel to toe for greater control.
There is one other use that I found for the stringing tool and that was to create a shallow kerf to guide a saw blade for a replacement handle on a panel saw.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY DEREK JONES/GMC PUBLICATIONS