Japanese Saws

Anthony Bailey explains the key features of Japanese pullsaws and demonstrates how to use them

There is a vast range of Japanese pullsaws available on the market, and the advantages to the user are so great that I felt it was worth looking in depth at this increasingly popular hand tool.

How they are made

Compared to the hand-forged methods employed to make Japanese laminated steel chisels, pullsaws are much more of a production line job. Just like the hardpoint saws used for carpentry, the pullsaw blades are punched from a long strip of steel, making the key part – the blade – a relatively easy thing to create. However, high levels of quality checking are used to ensure precision and consistency.

The type of saw the blade will be used for, determined by its tooth pattern, will dictate the sort of handle that is used. Handles can be wrapped in split bamboo or rubberised plastic depending on the quality or type of saw.

Types of saw

Dozuki: a backsaw, with a folded stiffening strip to hold the blade rigid. It is often supplied with very fine teeth, making it ideal for use as a dovetail saw.

Ryoba: used for deep cutting both rip and crosscut, having two edges with different size teeth. Tatebiki teeth are the ripsaw type and the Yokobiki have crosscut teeth.

Kataba: both a rip and crosscut saw, with teeth on one side only and without a back.

Azebiki: a small Ryoba designed to cut into a surface with its convex blade. There are panel saws with a hook tooth at the tip to allow mid-panel starting.

Mawashibiki: is a thin-bladed saw for cutting curves.

Kaeba: has a disposable blade and means ‘changing blade’. However, since Japanese saws are normally fitted with interchangeable blades it could apply to any of them.

Kugihiki Nokogiri: a flush cutting saw. Its name means nail cutting saw, a ‘nail’ being a dowel or peg.

These are some of the most common types, but there are others, not all of which are sold with Japanese names and the names do not always appear to be used correctly in the UK – my apologies if I have made any mistakes with nomenclature. It should be noted that they are often sold with their English description – panel, flush cut, and so on – which makes things much more understandable.

Key features

3. The teeth in many cases are quite fine and sometimes without any ‘set’ at all, which makes for very neat precise cuts.

4. Once mastered they are easy to aim and cut true.

5. Unlike a conventional push saw you can trim off tiny amounts.

6. Fine-tooth blades will cut rigid plastics very effectively.

7. The blades can be replaced when the teeth become damaged or the blade body gets buckled by severe jamming.

8. The handle shapes and surface finishes offer a pleasingly different experience for the user.

USAGE TIPS

Just wielding one of the larger pullsaws in the presence of anyone unfamiliar with such a tool can inspire nervous awe, as the blade and handle combined can look more like a weapon than a saw. Certainly the thin blade and long handle can make a novice uncertain about how to go about using a pullsaw.

9. It is very easy so long as you remember it has a pullstroke only; pushing will cause the blade to buckle and jump, and the teeth may break as they are both hard and brittle, although the main part of the blade does have some capacity to flex. The teeth are very precisely cut to shape and so can cut fingers as well as wood. However, because not so much effort is needed to move the blade this is less of a risk than with a standard western hardpoint saw.

10. The traditional-style long handles can be held how you choose, but I normally grip in the middle because it feels right; it is a matter of balance and comfort so the saw stroke is both fluid and controlled. Sight down the blade as you would do with a pushsaw, following the marked line with the blade. Because the teeth are quite small depending on the type of blade and the easier start of cut, lining pullsaw teeth up against a marked line is easy, and on subsequent strokes will not normally deviate. This natural in-built accuracy, combined with their light weight, makes these tools a pleasure to use.

11. Because you start at the front of a workpiece it is in theory easier to keep to a line. Incising to the line first, which is best with very precise pushsaw work, is not required as the blade cuts such a fine kerf and will start cutting easily.

12. Small components are best crosscut using a bench hook designed so the workpiece sits beyond the fence of the bench hook, as it will then be pulled forward toward the user with each stroke.

13. I like to mix my saws, so I use a hardpoint for board cutting, a large tenon saw for large joint cutting and several Japanese saws for the fine rip and crosscut, dovetails and flush trimming.

14. Nice tools need to be cared for and these are no exception. A light rub with camellia oil on the blades, avoiding catching on the teeth, is the most that is needed although a favourite is using an anti-rust compound in the tool cabinet as the blades can then be left unoiled.

15. Blades do get damaged occasionally, so check the teeth and the straightness of the blade. The hook-in type fit around a pin. Wrap the blade or wear gloves to avoid the risk of injury.

16. The blade back support is tapped on the bench so the blade drops into the slot properly. Several taps may be required for the blade to be seated properly.

17. Removal entails tapping the back edge of the blade to get it to come loose. Be careful as it may fly across the workshop floor. Note that saws without a spine must have their blades wrapped for safety and instead of the back edge of the blade, tap the handle on the bench.

18. Special saws and saw guide kits are made which enable you to cut very accurate mitre and crosscuts or even precise board cutting.

19. Certain blades have a bevelled or hook tooth, allowing mid- panel starts without resorting to other methods. Once you cut through you can turn the saw around and work from the other end as well.