Sue Harker shows you how to turn an earring and ring stand pedestal bowl
I particularly like this project, which, like several of my recent projects, has been inspired by a pottery version I saw online. As with all my projects, I like to make something similar but with my own interpretation and design ideas and alterations.

This earring/ring holder is a small version of a pedestal bowl with holes around the rim for dangling earrings to fit into. As an addition to the version I saw, I have added an upstand in the centre of the bowl to serve as a ring holder. You could, of course, leave this out should you wish. Being a small bowl, the method of chucking required some thought. If your usual method for mounting bowls is using a screw chuck, then the ring holder would not be able to be included. I have chosen to drill a shallow Forstner bit recess the correct size for my jaws, which has enabled the ring holder to be included. I have chosen to turn the spindle with a simple cove, but it would also look nice with more shape to it, should you wish.
The project has been made using jaws with an optimum chucking recess requirement of 46mm, which works well for the size of bowl I have made. Should you have jaws with a larger optimum size, then the measurements of the bowl and spindle may need to be altered to accommodate this.
Plans & equipment
Tools
- PPE & RPE as appropriate
- 3⁄8in standard grind bowl gouge
- 3⁄8in long grind bowl gouge
- Spindle roughing gouge
- 3⁄8in fingernail profile spindle gouge
- 1⁄2in fingernail profile spindle gouge
- 1⁄8in parting tool
- An indexer
- Pillar drill with 2mm drill bit attached
- Spring callipers
Materials
- Bowl blank measuring approximately 120mm diameter x 36mm thick
- Length of timber approximately 70 x 70 x 70mm long
The Making












a spindle rouging gouge. Next, set a pair of spring callipers to 52mm and using a 1⁄8 in parting tool cut a tenon 5mm wide using the callipers for sizing. Next, reduce the callipers to the size of your recess, in this instance 46mm, and cut a tenon this diameter into the end 2.5mm of timber. Remove the timber from the lathe, try for fit, and adjust as necessary




Hand Hints
For a more accurate placement of the holes around the bowl, position the toolrest as close to the bowl face as possible and place the lead of your pencil between this gap to draw the reference mark. By positioning the pencil each time in this position the spacing will be more accurate.
When drilling the 24 holes. Set the drill depth on your pillar drill to approximately 20mm to ensure the holes are all drilled deep enough. By using cut and polish before applying a wax finish to your timber you will achieve a far smoother finish.

Hole Drilling Jig
If you plan to make several of these items for sale at a craft fair for example, then a jig like the one in the picture could be made to speed up the process of drilling the holes. First, a centre hole is drilled into the top of the bowl the same size as the jig dowel. Place the jig over the timber and locate the dowel through the jig and into the hole in the timber. This should hold the jig securely enough to drill through the jig using a pillar drill and a 2mm drill bit.