In an extract from his new book Whittling Walking Sticks, Peter Benson carves a topper in the shape of a mallard duck’s head

This is an edited extract from Whittling Walking Sticks by Peter Benson, published by GMC Publications, RRP £14.99
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This is a very good subject to try early on in your whittling journey as it doesn’t contain too much fine detail yet gives you the scope to be as technical (or not) as you wish. It is also a good project for learning the necessary research skills as a wide variety of ducks can be found at local parks or duck ponds so you can take your own reference photos, as well as searching online and in books.
I have chosen to make a mallard but you can obviously make any type of duck you wish, as long as you check any variations in the overall shape of the head. I chose to carve and paint the eyes on my piece as I didn’t want to just paint it; if you prefer to add glass eyes they need to be around 8–10mm in diameter and dark brown. The pattern provided here is about life size so any dimensions can match a real duck. I used a piece of lime because it is easy to carve and gives a good finish, but you can use whatever wood you wish.
You will need
- Knife
- Safety glove
- Clamp or vice
- Band or coping saw
- Drill
- Threaded rod
- Gouges
- Mallet
- Abrasives
- Cyanocrylic glue
- Glass eyes (optional)
- Acrylic watercolour paints (optional)
- Danish oil
Marking out




Fitting the threaded rod

Shaping the duck’s head





Adding the eyes





Joining the head to the stem





Any further reduction of the stem will be done once the two parts are securely glued together and will need to be done very carefully to avoid any damage to the bark at the top of the shaft. You can now go back and add the finishing touches to the carving of the head while it is easily moved around. If you are painting the head, you might like to leave this until after the fitting just in case the paint gets scratched, but any other texturing or finishing can safely be completed beforehand. You will probably have carved off your top location mark by now so will need to relocate the head on the top of the shaft. Once you have done this, make another mark to line up with the one on the shaft to make sure you get the two parts into the same place when gluing. Slightly hollow the matching surface of the shaft down from the edge to the drilled hole. This will give a greater area for gluing and will prevent rocking at the joint


Finishing



This is an edited extract from Whittling Walking Sticks by Peter Benson, published by GMC Publications, RRP £14.99