Oak And Walnut Chest

Israel Martin makes a small chest of drawers to store a pen collection

Wooden box with two drawers, oak accents.

At the beginning of my career I used to focus on making complicated pieces, full of details. However, over recent years I’ve realised that I really like simple but well done pieces. This small chest of drawers was a commission from a pen collector who wanted storage for their special pens. I wanted it to be simple, so I designed a plain oak carcass and two drawers. The only ‘extra’ details were the carcass dovetails. I used a nice piece of quartersawn French oak for the carcass; the drawers were made from maple for the sides and walnut for the fronts and then I veneered two pieces of quartersawn oak to the fronts. To keep the pens in place in the drawers, I used some triangular maple pieces; I had already used something similar when making a chest of drawers for cutlery, and they worked just as well in this case.

Close-up of wooden dovetail drawer joints

The quartersawn oak carcass

To prepare the carcass timber, I planed the 50mm oak boards and cut them to 18mm. I then hand planed them again and glued them, book-matched and planed them once again to the desired thickness of 15mm. Next, I dimensioned the boards to length and started working on the joinery. I created a nice pattern for the dovetails and dados and used mortise and tenons to join the drawer dividers and guides. The back was fixed in a groove.

Making the drawers

First, I dimensioned the maple for the drawer sides and fronts. Normally I like these to fit really tight so that after gluing them and planing them smooth I can adjust the drawers perfectly in their place. In this case, the drawer sides were about 8mm and the fronts about 13mm.

The tails were made first; even though I had marked them with a knife, I sawed straight in the line to avoid having to make any further adjustments, although if I had needed to adjust a tail, I would have the knife line there.

Next, I made the pins and then the grooves for the drawer bottoms. I like to make tails with small shoulders so that I can use most of the drawer space after installing the bottom. After gluing the tails in place, I glued the quartersawn walnut veneer to the fronts. Finally, I fitted the quartersawn red cedar drawer bottoms.

Wooden workshop plane with shavings on workbench.
1. Planing the French oak for the carcass
Wooden planks clamped together in a workshop.
2. Gluing the carcass pieces
Wooden joint in a workshop
3. Marking the tails
Woodworker crafting dovetail joints in a workshop.
4. Sawing between the tails
Close-up of carved wooden dovetail joints with chisel.
5. Adjusting the tail shoulders
Wooden dovetail joint with chisel on table.
6. Transferring the tails to get the pins
Woodworking tools on a wooden workbench.
7. Making dados for the drawer guides
Woodworking tools and bench in a dim workshop.
8. The drawer guides and divider
Handcrafted wooden shelf in workshop setting.
9. Dry fitting the carcass
Close-up of wooden table corner with grain detail.
10. Detail of the completed dovetail pattern
Wooden dovetail storage box on workshop table.
11. The finished carcass
Wooden dovetail jointed chest on workbench
12. Testing the drawer fronts
13. Planing the drawer sides
14. The tails were made first
Woodworking tools and dovetail joints on workbench.
15. Adjusting the tails’ shoulders
Close-up of dovetail joint in wooden furniture.
16. Detail of the through dovetails and groove
Close-up of dovetail joint on wooden furniture
17. The finished drawers, fitted in place

Drawer front veneers

I like to make through dovetails when I’m going to veneer the fronts. I planed only one face and the two sides, then glued the planed side. When the glue was dry I planed the external face to the line I had left with the marking gauge. Then I carefully planed the veneer on the long edges and finally the veneer end grain.

Applying shellac

After making the carcass I planed it smooth and cleaned away all the pencil marks, I then applied shellac on to it. I wanted the carcass top and sides to be as perfect as I could finish them, as these will be the more visible parts of the piece. When I applied the finish on the drawers, I used tape to avoid getting any finish on the sides – that way I could make further adjustments if needed. The sides were left with only a marble finish done with the smoothing plane. I used pumice after applying two coats of shellac and then only alcohol until the surface was smooth.
I then finished it with three or four more coats of shellac.

Quartersawn red cedar drawer bottoms

I love using quartersawn red cedar for drawer bottoms. It is the most stable wood I can find in my part of the world, and if the pieces are not extremely wide I can even glue them to the drawer and keep them in using just a pair of screws without slotted holes. The straight pattern of the wood is also really nice. The only two problems I find with red cedar are it’s quite soft (I apply shellac on the drawer bottoms to counter this) and I have to sharpen the tool blades often due to the silica in the wood cells.

Stands for pens

The first time I had to make stands or holders to keep things inside drawers, I tried several methods and I found these triangular ones the best solution. They are very easy to make by hand but they look nice. I can place them at different lengths depending on what is going to be inside, and they keep things in place. I made square sticks and then shaped them using round rasps and finished them with a round file and 1,200 grit sandpaper.

Wood glue and clamps on workbench in woodworking shop.
18. Set-up for gluing the veneer fronts
Blue clamps holding wooden boards together
19. Detail of the glue-up
Wood plane next to wooden joint frame
20. Planing the veneer edges
Carpenter smoothing wood surface with hand plane tool.
21. Planing the veneer ends
Close-up of wooden dovetail joint on drawer.
22 & 23. Details of the finished drawers
Wooden box with dovetail joints on a table.
23.
Woodworking bench with tools and wooden box
24. Applying shellac on the carcass
Wooden dovetail joint TV cabinet on table.
25. Detail of the carcass
Workbench with woodworking tools and unfinished projects.
26. Set-up to apply the finish
Wooden dovetail joints in carpentry workshop
27. Applying shellac on the drawers
Wooden dovetail joint on workbench.
28. Red cedar bottom in place
Woodworking tools on a workbench close-up
29. Sawing the red cedar boards
Wooden boards on a workshop bench.
30. Detail after sawing it by hand
Open wooden drawers with dovetail joints.
31. View of the bottoms while opening the drawers
Wooden boxes on a workshop table.
32. View of the rear side of the drawer bottoms in place
Woodworking bench with tools in workshop.
33. Sawing the stands
Wooden drawer construction on workbench in workshop.
34. The pen stands in the drawer
Close-up of wooden drawer with knob, dovetail joint
35. Close-up of pen stands

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ISRAEL MARTIN

Further reading

One Response

  1. Lovely pen/pencil display draw case.
    The work gone into this project has really impressed me and I would love to try to attempt a good looking piece.
    Would the dimensions be available please?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *