Scrollsaw Basics

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Fred & Julie Byrne pass on their expertise with a comprehensive guide to the scrollsaw, and share a design for a jewellery tree

First let us say that the scrollsaw is probably one of the safest power tools in the workshop and the perfect tool for freehand cutting of fretwork, marquetry and inlay. Choosing a scrollsaw, however, is a very personal decision; the only tip we can give is to do your research. The model that we use is a Hegner scrollsaw. It’s a top of the range saw, and we cannot fault it – ours has served us for many years. It has handled both fine intricate and quite chunky projects with ease and is definitely our best friend in the workshop, but it does come with a hefty price tag.

Before making a purchase, we suggest asking yourself the following questions.

How much money do I want to spend?

The general rule of thumb is to buy the best you can afford, but there is a healthy second-hand market via the internet that is well worth investigating.

How much do I plan to use the scrollsaw?

If it is to be just an occasional tool or you are new to scrollsawing and do not yet know if you will like it then an economical one would suffice, but if scrolling is your passion – like us – get the best you possibly can.

What kind of scrollsawing do I plan to do?

If you plan to do a lot of fretwork, you will most probably be drilling starter holes and repositioning the blade quite often, so a quick blade change will be a high priority. You will also definitely want a scrollsaw that takes plain end blades, not ‘pin end blades’ as the cross endpin will not pass through a small blade starter hole, that some fine fretwork patterns require.

Are bevelled (i.e. angled) cuts an important consideration

On the majority of scrollsaws the table will tilt to both the left and right, which is OK, but not great as sometimes you are working at such an angle that it’s hard work keeping the saw on the cutting line, so a saw with a tilting arm may be beneficial. Speed can also be a major factor; it’s measured in strokes per minute, generally scrollsaws have two speeds, but a variable speed gives you the most options for cutting any thickness of wood and is especially good if cutting plastics or metal.

What thickness of wood will I normally be working with when scrollsawing?

If the wood is relatively thin you’ll need a zero clearance insert within the table, to both support your fragile work and stop any small pieces falling through the slot for the blade. On the other scale, if you’re using thick wood – the maximum being approximately 50mm – you’ll want to make sure the saw has ample power to cope.

What size of project do I plan to make?

This is where you’ll want to take the throat capacity into consideration, the measurement from the back of the arm support to the blade, which can be as much as an impressive 760mm! But if your workspace is at a premium, you’ll probably find a 406–458mm size is ample.

Accessories worth considering

Lights and magnifiers enhance your view of the pattern, making the lines easier to follow. Using a vacuum cleaner is recommended to remove the dust created by cutting, which is a health hazard.

Choosing blades

It used to be a simple choice of either pin or plain end, now there is a vast range of blades to choose from, so where do you start? Scrollsaw manufacturers usually supply a small assortment of wood and metal blades with their machines, which are fine to have a practice with especially while you’re getting used to applying the right amount of tension for each of the different thickness of blades. Too much tension applied to a very fine blade, i.e. No.2–3, will just snap it in half before you’ve even started, whereas too little tension on a slightly larger blade, say No.5–7, and it will easily wander making it difficult to stay on the cutting line.

When we first started scrollsawing, we broke blades all the time and initially found it very disheartening. We asked a Hegner rep at a woodworking show which blades he could recommend, as we kept breaking ours. A smile came over his face as he said he’d recently been testing some new Olson PGT (Precision Ground Tooth) skip/ reverse tooth blades and try as he might he couldn’t break them! Needless to say, we couldn’t wait to try them out, and it’s fair to say this has been our choice of blade for the vast majority of our intarsia projects. But as we started to experiment with different woods and more intricate design patterns and even plastics, we found we needed to expand on our range of blades.

Blades come in different numbers and TPI (teeth per inch). The lower the number the finer (thinner) the blade, while the higher the number, the thicker the blade. A higher TPI will give you a very fine cut with a tight turning circle, whereas a lower TPI will give you a wider cut and turning circle.

Blade types

SKIPTOOTH: This blade has spaces between the teeth allowing the sawdust to be cleared more easily, keeping the blade cool which helps to keep burning to a minimum; a fast blade giving
a smooth finish.

REVERSE TOOTH: Several reverse teeth at the bottom of the blade eliminate a lot of splintering on the underside of the workpiece and leave minimal sanding, which is always good!

CROWN TOOTH: A unique tooth design that cuts on both up and down strokes, allowing for a very smooth controlled cut; an economic blade that can be turned upside down for a fresh set of teeth.

DOUBLE TOOTH: A set of two teeth together and then a space, which expels the sawdust, helping to keep heat out of the blade.

SPIRAL BLADES: Twisted round in a spiral allowing the teeth to cut on all sides, here there is no need to turn the workpiece which can be useful on large projects, the downside is the cut is rough and uneven, which requires more sanding.

Blade choices come down to your own personal preference; the more you scroll the more you will know which blades you like to use for certain materials. We do give blade recommendations, but ultimately the choice is yours. Don’t be discouraged if you get it wrong a few times.

Blade tension

Ensure the table is in the horizontal position, then, using the key supplied by the manufacturer, secure the blade clamps to each end of the blade, making sure the teeth are facing downwards and the tension on the saw is fully released. Then fit the blade, with the clamps attached, onto the scrollsaw mountings. Use a metal square or right angle tool to align the blade at 90° to the table, then tighten the tension on the blade. Flex the blade a little with your finger, there should not be any more than 1–2mm movement. Generally, the tighter the better; if you cut too forcefully on a loose blade, it is more likely to break and you will tend to have an irregular, angled cut and find it hard to stay on the cutting line.

This is especially important for inlay and intarsia projects where the edges of each piece must be square, or they will not butt together flush. Cut about 2mm into a piece of scrap 19mm wood, stop cutting and back the blade out, move the wood to the back of the blade without turning it over. If the blade slides easily into the cut then the blade is square to the table, if not, either undo the blade and repeat the procedure until you get it right, or adjust the table a degree or two either way.

Using the scrollsaw

The best way to learn is to practise. Draw straight and wavy lines on scrap pieces of wood and practise cutting accurately on the lines. Holding the workpiece with both hands – one either side of the blade – keeps you in control and gradually you will build up your confidence. If you do veer off the line, gradually work your way back without making any sudden turns, once the pattern is removed only you will know. Start off with a medium speed, but generally set a higher speed for thick material and lower speed for thin. The rate at which you feed the wood through is important – do not force the wood towards the blade, this will cause premature wear and breakage; work steadily with a gentle but firm pressure, letting the saw do the work for you.

Attaching the pattern

The simplest method is to photocopy the pattern and glue the copy directly to the wood, with either a spray adhesive or glue stick, keeping the original in case you need to make further copies. Alternatively, transfer the pattern using carbon/graphite paper, by tracing the pattern onto tracing paper, then positioning the tracing onto the wood. This can be an advantage if the grain of the wood is an important factor for a particular pattern. When satisfied slide the carbon/graphite paper underneath, secure with small strips of masking tape and go over the tracing with a pen or pencil.

JEWELLERY TREE

Now it’s time to put our advice to practical use with a project. This simple jewellery tree is a great place to start. Making it will hopefully give you a few cutting techniques and experiences to get you started on the road to being a scrollsaw enthusiast. We used a 6mm African red hardwood for both the base and tree; we laminated the base for stability and added interest by using a contrasting colour in-between, a high quality plywood could be a good alternative.

You will need

• Scrollsaw
• Blade – No. 5 reverse/skiptooth or blade of your choice
• Pillar drill – 2 or 3mm drill bit
• Small diameter drum sander – optional
• Wood of choice
• Patterns
• Spray adhesive/glue stick
• Wood glue
• Sandpaper – 280 & 320 grit
• Finish of your choice

Cutting list

Component	Qty	L	W	T
Tree section	1	240mm	175mm	6mm
Base	2	130mm	60mm	6mm
Contrast wood (optional	1	130mm	60mm	1.5mm

Plan download

Getting started

Making the base

The tree section

Finishing