Mark Dunning makes the ideal bench for his workshop with twin screw vices and multiple work holding capability
The day finally came when I could commit to building my ideal bench to meet my needs for today and in the future. The start of the process was to write down what I wanted the bench to do for me and how it would help facilitate my continued woodworking skill development. I made a list outlining exactly what I needed from the bench, including a description of the clamping/supporting accessories it needed to be compatible with.
The Main Design Considerations
The first question to consider was, does size matter and is bigger better? I decided on a 2-metre bench, which will be adequate for. all my current and future needs. This size will also be to deal with more than one job at a time. If you want to build your own bench, my suggestion is to build the bench as big as your work area will allow, as it is the central tool in the workshop. Its height will depend on your own size. My aim was to ensure I could work from an upright position and avoid having to stoop.
The next consideration was what materials to use. There are many hardwoods to choose from. I took best practice from the old familiar benches we worked with at school and the modern elite benches, all of which are made from beech. Beech is very durable and dense and lower in price than many other hardwoods. I had some leftover pre-made beech block worktops so it made sense to use them, otherwise I would have considered full-length boards. The centre components are encased within a dovetailed apron. I had to incorporate seasonal movement into the design, so I left two 3mm shadow gaps down the centre.
After researching ideas in magazines and on the internet, I ended up with a design that I was happy with. I decided on Twin Veritas End Vices for the end and front face as they resist racking and generate good clamping power along a wide jaw. They are also quite easy to install if you follow the instructions. I planned to incorporate Sjoberg 1in bench dogs and hold-downs. I really like the design and layout of the dog holes on the Sjoberg bench that I used at the Waters & Acland furniture school, although I didn’t like the vices that came with the benches.
For the base, I really wanted to keep my options open. Initially I planned to install a base shelf and one adjustable shelf only. In the future, I would consider adding a tool chest or housing for workbench accessories such as shooting boards, etc. Before making that decision, I wanted to start to work with the bench. That way I can evaluate how the workshop operates and whether I want to develop the bench functions further.
The Build
The Veritas vice somewhat dictated the worktop dimensions and this was the starting point. I cut down and prepared the centre slabs of the beech block worktop. Due to these being 35mm thick, I glued two boards together to make 70mm. I used a 6mm groove cutter and ran two channels around all four sides of the centre slabs. I used full-length plywood slips in the grooves to achieve a strong joint for the apron of the benchtop.
I repeated this process around the apron of the workbench, stopping 30mm from either edge, to prevent it encroaching onto the dovetails. The centre support strip is designed to support the two slabs in the midpoint, allowing the movement to happen. To ensure maximum strength, I ran one 6mm slip groove on either side (top groove on one side, bottom groove on the other). To achieve the 3mm shadow gap in the centre, I’ve used 3mm offcuts and placed them in between the centre strip and slabs. When it is time to glue it together they can be removed leaving a 3mm shadow/expansion gap.
Once the centre components were cut to length and all the grooves were cut, work could begin on the apron. The dovetail size and arrangements is a personal choice. I chose an equally divided and strong looking joint, as it has heritage in the Arts & Crafts movement. You may have noticed that the dovetail joints are different orientations on each end to keep the vice face flat and unobstructed. This is essential as a flat apron surface is needed. If any joints protrude onto the surface, seasonal movement would impact the integrity of the vice face.
Glue-Up
Once all of this had been completed, it was time for the dry glue-up. In dry cramp, any tweaks can be identified and rectified. For example, I had to hand plane the apron to get it sitting perfectly square. If you choose to build a bench of this length you will need an additional pair of hands. They say you can never have too many cramps, and this was certainly apparent in this build.
I glued the top in two stages and used PVA glue rather than Titebond. PVA glue is a thinner solution and easier to work with. Titebond is less malleable and cures faster, which can cause problems towards the end of the clamping session. Even with PVA, at the latter cramps, I needed to work harder to get the joint to knit together. The dovetail ends were glued opposite to the tail vice and once that was dry, the next stage could begin.
The centre components and the remaining apron piece could be glued together. This was the tricky bit. You must ensure you have 3mm spacers ready to create the shadow gap. They must be installed before you nip all the cramps up. When applying the glue, all areas of the long apron with the corresponding surface can be glued fully in the grooves, on the slips and over all faces. The middle of the apron and the centre strip should be totally glue free to allow
for movement. If you glue these areas, the design will be compromised, therefore only glue the very edges.
When clamping, work from the outer edges into the middle, turning a little at a time. Repeat this process a few times. If you try to cramp fully in one go it is hard to keep everything square. Have a bowl of hot water, toothbrushes and cloths ready to wipe off as much excess glue as possible. After 24 hours, remove all the cramps, run over everything with an orbital sander, working through from 150 to 280 grit.
Building the Base
The base is very simple. If you make all the components perfectly square you will not have any problems. For the joinery, I used the Festool Domino machine. My intention was to stain the base, so there was no need for any complex joinery. If you wanted to add more detailed joinery to the base for the Arts & Crafts connection you could do so, for example by adding through mortises and tenons with a contrasting wedge.
The operating of the Domino machines doesn’t need explaining, but I will mention that I used four 10 x 50mm Domino dowels on the bottom components of the base. The top components were simply screwed and glued together. You will notice that the top of the legs have been notched out to receive the apron of the bench top. The bottom of the apron is supported as well as the underside of the bench top. This also makes the apron flush with the legs, which is one of the main design features I wanted. The flush design concept is an important feature, as I wanted to make sure that any large pieces can be totally supported and clamped across the whole face of the bench.
On the inside of the base, I have simply battened it out ready to house a plywood shelf, which protrudes by 3mm. On the inside of the legs, I have drilled and inserted shelf pin housings, which keeps it flexible for future adaptations to the bench such as the addition of shelves. Once this was all glued, I added two coats of ebony stain, making sure I wiped off the excess between each coat. After 24 hours this was fully cured and I applied two coats of Danish oil.
Fitting the Vice
My advice is to read the instructions that come with the vice, rather than searching online for the best approach. I found the internet provided many different methods and this was confusing. I made a template of the vice mouth while following the step- by-step instructions, which made the whole process very simple. I strongly recommend this approach:
1. Make the template to the exact width of the bench and a fraction over the height. This can be planed off afterwards. Once it is all constructed and the mouth of the vice is closed for the first time, you may find a small discrepancy, so you need that contingency.
2. Include the position of the benchtop on the template, and the holes to receive the vice nuts, which are on 38mm centres beneath the bench top. Also, the holes to receive the pins that keep the workpiece off the oily threads of the vice.
3. Once the markings are complete, use a drill press to accurately drill out the holes needed. The benchtop is glued and sanded, ready to receive the template, which should be clamped in place. I also used a little bit of extra fine double-sided tape for additional security. With the template in place, I cut out the holes using a large drill bit for the initial pilot hole and then the router, using a flush bearing-guided cutter to complete the holes exactly as per the template.
Once both parts of the aprons were finished I took the template onto the other part of the vice and followed the exact same procedure. Adding the blocks onto the rear of the apron was next. Due to the apron being 30mm thick, the nut would protrude onto the surface so I added a 25mm spacer block at the rear of the apron. This was more than enough. I glued it in place, which added strength and stability for the integrity of the vice mouth. Remember not to get glue onto the benchtop as it would impact the seasonal movement.
Assemble the Vice Hardware
The hardware could now be fitted and you can get it up and running. The vice was installed, the face plates screwed in and the nuts fitted to receive the screws. The chain can be adjusted at this point if needed, but I made things simpler by incorporating it as part of the design, so the chain that came with it fitted perfectly without further adjustment being required. This also meant I didn’t have to cut the cover plate down, which you would have to do if the chain was adjusted. The instructions look quite simple if you do have to make modifications.
When the vice is in full cramp position it is easy to use the adjustment nuts to make them parallel. This is important, because it would irritate me if they Next I removed the protection barrier from the threads and then reapplied them with GT48 lubricating solution. At this point I had the vices working properly so I could plane the vice mouth flush with the worktop. I added the vice screw thread spacer block to the underneath of the workbench to stop the vice dipping at full extension. I removed the vice mouth so that I could add the decorative 40mm roundover which I did on the router table. The last step, while the vice was off was to drill the dog holes on the drill press, before reassembling it for the last time.
Entering the Last Stages . . .
As mentioned above, I used the 1in Sjoberg bench dogs. Mark out the orientation for how you would like your holes to be. Use mine as a guide if you think that suits your needs. I simply used a mobile drill press, which I screwed to a scrap of timber and clamped it down to the bench top as I made my way around completing all the holes. I used a 25.4mm Forstner bit from Axminster Tools, which gave a lovely clearance for the bench dogs to operate smoothly. While drilling the holes in the vice mouths I had to approach the hole from both sides and then finish off with an extension piece on the Forstner bit to complete the hole in the middle.
When it came to drilling the holes in the front legs, I had to take extra care due to it being already stained. Once all the holes had been drilled I lightly sanded any rough areas away that had been left by the drill bit. To clean up the surfaces, I used a trim router with a 3mm roundover bit and went around all edges of the frame, bench top, vice mouths and dog holes. Then I ran over all the edges with a 280-grit sandpaper to give it a smooth feel.
Next I installed the rubber string down the centre shadow gaps. These gaps are 3mm wide and I purchased 3.5mm rubber string. They fit well and provide a tailored finish, while stopping dust and debris falling in. The benchtop and the inside of the dog holes were all given two coats of Danish oil, which completed the final step.
Bringing it Home
It was a great feeling to see the bench in place in my workshop. It sits underneath the window, which looks out onto a woodland landscape, and I know I will enjoy many hours standing at this bench. I enjoyed the project and if you’re considering buy or build, I would highly recommend the latter.
Key Learnings
- Rather than overthinking the design, I learned that the satisfaction is in the simplicity and the functionality. This is a bench that will outlast my career.
- Having put time and devotion into building my bench, I now know this will make me a better craftsman as I will want to care for the bench just as much as the pieces that I create.