Peter Benson carves a stylised Christmas Angel
Every Christmas tree should, traditionally, have an angel. It could be attached right at the very top or, as in this case, suspended anywhere around the tree that seems appropriate.
The pattern shown can be adapted to suit your own requirements – it can be made larger or smaller, have a bracket or loop fitted to the back so that it will fit on top of the tree, and can be left plain or painted. The choice is yours.
One of the problems facing a carver with a subject as small as this is that, even with the finest of small tools, it can be extremely difficult to carve the detail of a face. One of two things will inevitably happen. Either something looking like an anatomical experiment by a mad scientist will result or the carver will go further and further back trying to get an acceptable face. Eyes, noses and mouths are dif ficult enough to get right in a head three or four inches tall, so how can one expect to succeed with one that is half an inch tall?
By all means try, as I did, but throw in the towel if you fail af ter a couple of attempts, or you will end up with no face left. You will probably have more success getting the basic shape of the face and head and then painting on the eyes and mouth with very simple lines. Remember that there are two limitations to the amount of success you can achieve. One is your own ability, experience and knowledge of the subject and the other is the tools that you have at your disposal. If your tool selection is limited so will be your chances of success.
In the end it is all about whether you are happy with the results of your efforts. If you are, then the exercise has been worthwhile.
Things you will need
Tools:
- Safety glove
- Knife
- No.5, 6mm
- No.8, 3mm
- Small V-tool
- Paint brushes
- Acrylic water colour paints if needed
- Finishing oil
- Acrylic varnish or lacquer
Materials:
- Lime (Tilia spp.) 120mm long x 70mm wide x 20mm thick
Top tip
When working in some woods, particularly lime, drawing lines on your work with a pencil can result in the carving getting very dirty. You could use a fine-point marker pen but sometimes the ink bleeds. I find that a black biro can give a clear line that is easily carved of f when you have finished with it.
Top tip
If you are carving in relief from a pattern I recommend that you transfer your pattern to a clear acetate sheet, drawing it on with a fine-point permanent marker pen. This way you can offer it up to your carving and check that everything underneath is where it should be. This may sound obvious but, when you are carving something like this that needs to be as symmetrical as possible around the centreline, life can be easier if you cut out a paper pattern folded down that line as this will ensure that both sides are the same. Even doing this part-way through a carving can help get both wings the same, for example. Most novice carvers get fed up with hearing this but you must remember that the smaller your carving is the more important it is your tools are kept sharp with regular honing. Also, only carve in good light to ensure that you can see exactly what you are trying to do.
