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Carving a Fish

Andrew Thomas explores making a stylised reef-dwelling fish.

Photo by Andrew Thomas

During my teenage years, I spent most of my summers going with good friends on many sub-aqua diving trips and experienced immense pleasure from being at one with the ocean and its abundance of incredibly interesting creatures. This really gave me the inspiration to travel further afield to the Tropics, where I have visited many sensational islands and their coral reefs, full of vibrant colour and bountiful life. 

This project is based on one of my favourite tropical marine fish – the Moorish Idol, which is black, yellow and white in colour, with the most incredible fluid lines that allude to its elegant agility and speed though the water. The design has been slightly modified to accentuate the aquadynamic shape, especially the philomantis extension, which is the dramatically elongated trailing crest of the dorsal fin. The details of the eyes and pectoral fins have also been abstracted, which add to the dynamic energy of the composition.

The timber used for the project is a beautiful piece of tulipwood (Liriodendron tulipifera), which is strong enough to hold the fine details of the subject, has suitably interesting markings and was very reasonable to purchase. It can normally be sourced with both the beautifully contrasting colours of the creamy sapwood and black through to olive heartwood, so do shop around to find something equally interesting, which will really enhance the aesthetic appeal of the finished subject.

Due to the narrow 1 inch depth of the subject/timber, it will need to be attached to your woodcarving vice on the side of the wood, as there is not enough depth to fix it securely to the underside. You will therefore need to allow at least an extra 3in on the plank to facilitate this issue.  

Before you start working on the project, please read the complete step guide and study the stage and finished images to see how the sculpture develops. 

Things you will need

Tools

  • Swiss gouges
  • No.2, 5mm
  • No.2, 10mm
  • No.2, 20mm
  • No.3, 20mm
  • No.5, 20mm
  • No.7, 20mm
  • No.9, 10mm
  • No.12, 6mm
  • Knife
  • Saw
  • Drill bits: 2 & 4mm
  • Woodscrew: 4.0 x 30mm

Materials

  • Fish: tulipwood – dimensions: 270 x 160 x 25mm
  • Base: tulipwood – dimensions: 150 x 70 x 25mm
  • Boiled linseed oil
  • Medium-brown wax

Drawing and how to resize them

To enlarge or reduce the size of drawings right click on the image to download it and then go HERE to watch a video on how to use paper with a grid to do exactly that.

1. To allow good access to work along the lower edge of the fish, it is advisable to make a tapered cut downwards from the fish into the block that will be secured to the faceplate, as exemplified in the image. Also, ensure that a solid section of 30-40mm wide is left uncut that attaches the fish to the faceplate base. Please be aware that, although this section is more than strong enough to work on the form, due to the grain direction, any heavy mallet work used could risk the piece snapping off along the grain where the fish meets the base. Scan or photocopy all the scale drawings provided, enlarging them to the correct size for your wood, and print them out on to card to use as templates and reference.

Transfer the side view on to your block of wood, with the grain direction running horizontally through the block. Ensure that there is a spare section of wood underneath the form that will be used to attach it securely to your vice. Cut out the design and then measure and draw a centreline around the complete edge of the wood
2. Using the template to assist you, draw the pectoral fins in their correct positions on both sides of the form. Check from various angles to ensure perfect symmetry and adjust if necessary
3. Using a No.12, 6mm V-tool, carve a deep groove precisely around the very outside of the pectoral fin line
4. Now use a No.5, 20mm gouge to pare away the surface of the wood adjacent to the V-tool cut, down to the depth of the V-tool cut. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until the pectoral fins project approximately 3-4mm higher than the body
5. In this project, the shaping of the pectoral fins should be approached in the same way as a relief carving, that being to give them the impression of depth. This is achieved with a No.2, 10mm gouge, to create a subtle curvature across its surface from the position where it emerges from the body out to the highest point along the rear edge. The detail and undercutting will be covered in steps 14 and 15
6. The top view profile could not be cut to shape when the form was originally bandsawn, because the base needed to be left flat to attach it to the carving vice faceplate. This profile, therefore, has to be shaped by hand, but bear in mind that, at this stage, you only need to produce the overall dimensions of the form, which will be refined later in steps 9-13. Using the template provided to assist you, measure and draw the top profile along the body. Use a No.2, 20mm gouge to pare the wood back to the profile line
7. The tight curves at the tail end of the fish will need to be carved with a No.7, 20mm gouge, which lends its sweep to these awkward areas
8. The thickest area of the body is around the pectoral fins, which gradually taper off as the body flows outwards to the edges. The area from the philomantis extension, down through the tail fins to the lower fin are much thinner and therefore far more material is required to be removed from around these areas. Using the template again to help you, draw the semi-circular shape in position on both sides of the form, and check for correct alignment
9. Use a No.9, 10mm gouge to carve a deep groove around the outside of the semi-circular line, being careful to follow the grain direction, and changing when necessary
Top tip

No.9 gouges are the only tools in the range that have a semi-circular sweep. These can be used for a multitude of different tasks and are well worth having in your tool kit. I recommend sizes 10mm, 7mm and 5mm, which are more often than not used in conjunction with each other on many projects.

10. Use a No.3, 20mm, to start paring the wood down to the depth of the groove and across the surface to the rear end. Repeat steps 9 and 10 on both sides until the tail end is at least 4-5mm lower than the mass of the body
11. The objective of the next job is to create the illusion that the tail and lower fins are very thin, as in real life. This is accomplished by refining their shape from the centre position of each detail, outwards to the centreline on the edge, from both sides, to produce a very sharp line all the way around the centre of the edge. The upper philomantis extension can be rounded as it flows towards the thin end. Do this all with the No.2, 10mm 
12. The thickest area of the body can now be tapered, from the position of the semi-circular line, gradually working inwards around its circumference towards the thickest position of the pectoral fins. This should also blend evenly on to the tail end that has just been carved in the previous steps
13. Your fish should now look something like this 
14. The next job is to undercut the edge of the pectoral fins to create some shadow between them and the body, producing the visual effect of separation between these two volumes. Using a razor-sharp knife, cut a deep slice along the left, right and lowest edge, angling the cut inwards into the fin
15. Then use a No.2, 5mm gouge to pare the edge of the fin into the knife cuts. Repeat steps 14 and 15 another one or two times until the undercut produces an effective amount of shadow to create the visual effect of separation between the body and fins
16. The fish can now be sanded with grit 100 abrasive to remove all tool marks, blend the surface depths evenly together, and to refine the sharp, fine line around the edge
17. The simple but effective details of the abstracted eyes and pectoral fins can now be applied to the form. Using the template to assist you, draw the eyes in their correct positions and check from all angles to ensure their symmetry. Use the knife to cut a deep slice along the lower edge of the eye line
To tip

Knives, by their very own anatomy, are a difficult tool to use and require much practice to master. I recommend the shorter, thinner blades with the cutting edge as close to the hand gripping position as possible. These short blades help with easier directional control and have a comfortable balance, which helps users to develop their skills and confidence in a far more safer and accurate way.

18. Use the No.2, 10mm to pare the wood directly below the knife cut into the knife cut. Repeat steps 17 and 18 until you have a depth of approximately 2-3mm, which holds a good amount of shadow to create the desired effect of the eye
19. Use the template again to help you position and draw the lines on to the pectoral fins. Use the knife to cut along the lower edge of these lines, and the No.2, 5mm to pare the wood below the cut into the cut – 1.5mm depth is sufficient here. The carved areas of the eyes and pectoral fins can now be sanded evenly into the knife cuts with 150 grit abrasive
20. The final job to do before the fish is cut off the base, is to shape as much of the lower edge as possible and sand through the other abrasive grits. This must be accomplished with a delicate touch so as not to put too much pressure on the fish, snapping it off the base prematurely. First, measure and mark 5mm outwards from both sides of the centreline on both sides of the edge, giving you a 10mm central piece underneath the fish
21. Use the No.9, 10mm gouge, carving directly underneath the design line of the fish on both sides until you reach the depth of the mark you made in the previous step
22. Now, very gently, use the No.2/20mm to make shallow cuts along the lower edge, curving this end of the body naturally inwards to meet the No.9, 10mm gouge cuts
23. The lower edge of the fish’s body should now look similar to this and can be sanded with 100 grit to blend the depths evenly together. The fish is now ready to be sanded through the final abrasive grits
24. Dust off the wood with a clean, soft brush and then brush or pour hot water over the complete surface and leave it to dry. Work through 150, 240 and 400 grits, removing all of the scratches from each previous grit and repeating the hot-water process in between. When you are sure that the abrasive work is completed to a fine finish, use the saw to cut the fish off the base
25. Secure the fish in a woodworker’s vice using some dense foam or polystyrene to protect the surface from any damage. Use the No.2, 20mm gouge to pare the wood evenly down to the design line at the lower edge
26. Draw a centreline along the lower edge connecting the two sharp lines of the body together. Measure and mark the position where the fish will be attached to the base when it is mounted and use a 2mm brad tooth wood bit to drill a 10mm pilot hole for the fixing screw
27. The lower position of the fish can now be shaped on both sides, continuing the natural contour, flowing from the belly down to the sharp centreline on the edge. Sand this lower edge of the fish through all the grits, using the hot-water technique in between each grit
28. The position where the fish attaches to the base will need to be made slightly flat and concave in shape, to follow the convex curvature of the base. Using the template to help you, mark this in position, which is approximately 30mm in length. Use either the knife or the No.2, 10mm to carve the wood to form this shape
29. The base for the fish is simple in its form so as to complement the composition rather than distract from the fish. This can obviously be adapted to accommodate the reader’s own design ideas, but note that the mounted fish must be at least 28mm higher than the surface to ensure that the lower fin is not in contact with the surface. Using the scale templates provided, transfer the side and top views of the base on to your block of wood and check for correct alignment. Mark the precise position where the fish will be attached to the base.

Drill and countersink a 4mm hole in this position. Bandsaw both profiles and then mount the base on to another piece of timber to raise it off the faceplate, then secure to your vice. Mark a centreline through the wood and then use your largest No.2 gouge to form an even contour all the way around the surface. Sand through all grits as outlined above. Place the fish in its mounted position to check that the concave area carved in step 28 sits perfectly on the convex area of the base, and adjust if necessary. Use a 4.0 x 30mm woodscrew to fix the two sections together
30. The finish used for the fish and base was chosen to enhance the beautiful colour tones and figure in the timber. Boiled linseed oil was applied initially and left for a week or so to dry before several coats of medium-brown wax polish were used to seal the grain and give a fine finish 
31. Mount the fish on the base and display with pride
Top tip

You may wish to make several of these fish in various sizes and display them together to produce a greater impacting composition. Or why not play with the design and adapt it to create your own individual fish forms, which will also be a lot of fun to do.

Further reading

Carve and Paint a Wood Pigeon

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