A good vice is an essential piece of workshop equipment for all woodworkers. This wooden vice is easy to make and robust enough for most carving projects – in fact, it can be scaled up for large sculpture work if required. This is undoubtedly the most used item in the workshop, so I have taken the opportunity to remake my old, substandard timber, vice, which I had for nearly 15 years and was getting quite battered, and document it as a self-build project for you, the reader, using a more suitable timber. I used European beech (Fagus sylvatica), but other suitable timbers would be Canadian hardrock maple (Acer saccharum), iroko (Milicia excels), or any sustainable, hard-wearing, close-grained hardwood.
The main and most important part of the project is the vice screw, so I have opted to use a trade vice screw from Axminster Power Tools here in the UK, which is a hefty piece of equipment. Other makes are available. For me the benefit of this vice is that it is mounted on top of the work bench and is at the perfect position for carving. I am quite tall, so-front mounted traditional woodworking vices give me backache, although they are perfect for planing timber. The vice could be mounted on a custom-built stand of your own design if desired to tailor it perfectly to your own requirements.
There are many versions around of this style of vice, all good in their own way. Here I have added some hardware of my choice and fitted reusable faceplates for longevity. You can opt to use different hardware if you find it difficult to get hold of the parts, for example any strong angle brackets cut to size will do for the rear jaw guides. Likewise, steel can be used instead of brass for the runners.
• Tail vice screw and handle: Axminster power tools cat no. 102474 • Brass flat bar: 2 @ 12.7mm x 6.35mm x 150mm, 2 @ 12.7mm x 6.35mm x 475mm • Brass angle: 2 @ 50.8mm x 25.4mm x 3.2mm x 190mm • Steel angle: 125mm x 35mm x 35mm x 3mm or similar • Brass countersunk screws: 24 @ 25mm x 4mm, 10 @ 20mm x 4mm • Steel countersunk screws: 4 @ 100mm x 6mm, 2 @ 40mm x 6mm, 6 @ 25mm x 5mm, 4 @ 40mm x 5mm, 6 @ 40mm x 4mm, 8 @ 25mm x 4mm • Sandpaper, 180g-240g • PVA glue • Danish oil • Wood filler (optional) • Two 16mm coach bolts nuts and washers of a suitable length
Cutting timber list:
• European beech (Fagus sylvatica) Base: 1 @ 475mm x 125mm x 45mm Front jaw: 1 @ 250mm x 125mm x 45mm Rear jaw: 1 @ 205mm x 125mm x 45mm Rear jaw sides: 2 @ 150mm x 105mm x 21mm Rear jaw top: 1 @ 200mm x 125mm x 21mm Rear jaw cross brace: 1 @ 83mm x 25mm x 21mm Faceplates: 2 @ 125mm x 110mm x 10mm Faceplate liners: cork tile of suitable size • Template: plywood or hardboard 125mm x 110mm
Carving vice plan
The base
1. Cut the base to size, 475mm x 125mm x 45mm, and mark the top and front, taking note of the grain direction. Draw a centreline front to back on the top of the base and measure 125mm from the front and 25mm from the back at points that intersect the line. Mark these points with an awl ready for drilling. For the front hole, using a 35mm Forstner bit, drill to a depth of 15mm then continue through with a 16mm flat bit. For the rear drill a 16mm hole right through2. Using a circular saw or router with a groove cutting disc, cut the grooves on each side of the base. Set the cut 12mm from the top edge and cut to a depth of 20mm. This dimension will differ if using a router depending on the size of the cutter. Cut the groove to a width of 4mm 3. Use a block plane to cut the rebate for the flat bar
Front Jaw
4. Next cut the front jaw to size 250mm x 125mm x 45mm, noting grain direction. Mark the top and face then draw a centreline from top to bottom on the face side. Draw a line 140mm down from the top edge, intersecting this line and mark with an awl ready for drilling. Using a 30mm Forstner bit, drill a through hole to accept the vice screw. The top of the jaws can be left square or, in this case, chamfered5. To achieve this, refer to the diagram and measure 50mm each way from the centreline on the top edge, then measure 75mm down each side and join the marks with a diagonal line back and front. Remove the waste with a saw and plane smooth6. Draw a line on the top 10mm from the front edge and 75mm down on the face, then join these lines on each side and remove waste with a smoothing plane
Replacing liners
To replace the faceplate liners, break away the cork to reveal the screw heads and remove the plates, then clean off the remaining cork, re-fit and replace the cork liner.
Faceplates
7. To make the template for the faceplates, cut a piece of plywood or similar to size 125mm x 110mm then, referring to the diagram, mark centreline and fixing holes and drill 2mm holes for the fixing points. Clamp to inner face of front jaw, aligning the centrelines, and plane down to match chamfers8. While clamped together, mark the screw holes by tapping a small nail through the fixing points on the template9. Drill 4mm holes to a depth of 20mm at these points
Dovetails
10a. Now scribe a line 46mm from the front edge on to the top and bottom of the base then, referring to the diagram, mark out for the dovetails. This will give approximately a 1:6 dovetail. Shade in the waste side of the dovetails for clarity10b. Now remove the waste with a fine-tooth saw and clean up with a 25mm paring chisel, taking care to clean out the corners for a nice, neat joint, then transfer the marks to the front jaw and cut out the waste for the pins11. Check for a tight fit then glue and clamp, making sure the front jaw is 90° to the base. This will leave 1mm protruding on the tails which can be planed down once the joint has set12. Cut the back jaw to size 205mm x 125mm x 45mm, noting grain direction, then mark top and inner face. Next, place the jaw on the top of the base snug up against the front jaw and clamp together with a thin piece of card underneath. Transfer the chamfer lines on to the inner face of the rear jaw. While still in this position, mark the hole for the vice screw by pushing the Forstner bit through the front jaw to mark the centre point for drilling the hole in the rear jaw. Remove the clamp then transfer the chamfer marks to the outer face, remove waste with a saw and plane as before. Drill the hole for the vice screw13. Before assembling the rear jaw parts the holes for the back nut need to be drilled. To do this clamp both jaws together as before and fix the vice screw to the front jaw with 2 x 40mm x 6mm c/s screws, making sure the thread is centrally positioned through both holes. Thread the back nut on as far as it will go and position it square to the rear jaw then mark the fixing holes. Remove vice screw and clamp and drill holes to accept 40mm x 5mm screws. Using the template drill holes for the faceplate on the inner face14. Cut sides to size 2 @ 150mm x 105mm x 21mm, noting grain direction, and mark top and outer face. Optional: the bottom edge can be rebated to accept pieces of brass flat bar runners 12.7mm x 6.35mm. Set the cut so that the bar sits just proud of the edge and flush to the side. Fix with 6 x 25mm x 4mm c/s brass screws15. Cut the top to size, 200mm x 125mm x 21mm – the grain direction can go either way on this piece – then cut cross brace to size 83mm x 25mm x 21mm. Fix the sides to the rear jaw with 4 x 100mm x 6mm c/s screws and fill screw heads with plugs or filler. Fix the top to the sides with 4 x 40mm x 4mm countersunk screws and fill screw heads as before. Fix the cross brace to the bottom rear edges of the sides with glue and 2 x 40mm x 4mm c/s screws fill screw heads as before16. The cross brace will also act as a stop against the rear mounting bolt to prevent the screw from being wound out completely17. To complete the rear jaw assembly cut, paint and fix a piece of steel angle to the top and jaw using 6 x 25mm x 5mm c/s screws18. Cut 2 @ 125mm x 110mm x 10mm then, using the template as a guide, plane down the edges to match the jaw chamfers on each piece. Mark the screw holes and drill 5mm clearance holes, then countersink deep enough so that the screw heads sit well below the surface. Now fix the faceplates to the jaws with 8 x 25mm x 4mm c/s screws19. Now is the time to apply the finish of your choice prior to fitting the hardware. Here Danish oil has been applied, which can be touched up from time to time without re-sanding. Note the screw holes have been covered with tape to prevent glue from clogging the screw heads. The cork liners are simply pieces of cork tile glued on to the faceplates and trimmed back with a craft knife20. To fit the hardware, cut the brass flat bar to size and fit into the rebates on the base with 10 x 25mm x 4mm brass c/s screws. The bar should be slightly proud of the top surface of the base. Place the rear jaw in position and fit the brass angle guides using 10 x 20mm x 4mm brass c/s screws. The brass guides will need to be cut back to approximately 18mm on one face to fit into the groove. Check for free running and adjust if necessary
Preparing back nut prior to fitting
The back nut is supplied countersunk for recessing. For this project it will need to be countersunk on the reverse side.
21. Fit the vice screw parts using 2 x 40mm x 6mm countersunk screws for the handle and thread assembly and 4 x 40mm x 5mm c/s screws for the back nut. Refer to article sidebar for pre-fitting detail. Check again for free running and adjust if necessary – the only touching parts should be the brass runners. A little candle wax will ease any resistance. The vice is now ready to mount on to your work bench, ideally on a suitable corner position. Using 15mm coach bolts, nuts and washers of suitable length22. If you have cut a groove right through to the front of the base, as in this example, you can fill the gaps with small fillets of matching wood for a neat finish23. The finished vice ready for use24. The vice is easy to use and versatile, which makes for a useful workshop addition
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