What is a shooting board?
If not already familiar with the term, you have probably heard of a shooting board from the woodworking lexicon. It’s one of the more common woodworking jigs, and is very useful for even the most basic of woodwork. Designed for trimming end grain, a low angle block plane is the perfect tool for any workshop, or companion for a travelling woodworker.
Why make a shooting board?
Such is their versatility that few of us feel suitably attired and able to leave the shop without one.
From trimming doors to jointing panels – these nifty little gadgets are just what you need to simplify and perfect some of the most basic processes in joinery and woodwork. When necessity calls for action, I’m no stranger to setting up an impromptu shooting board with a bench hook.
Both a shooting board and bench hook are a natural pairing in this context. However, to ensure a correct setup, a flat work surface is required – otherwise achieving a square end of the piece being trimmed will be difficult.
Size matters
In the workshop I have just one shooting board. It is large enough to accommodate my rather sizeable shooting plane. However, for the more delicate side of woodwork, it often feels over the top and ungainly. So, here’s a solution that takes full advantage of the block plane’s talent for tackling end grain in a more portable configuration – a block plane shooter.
Make sure you continually reference the exploded view throughout the construction process to ensure you cut at the correct dimensions.
Shooting board accuracy
When it comes to making a shooting board, there’s only one thing that matters – the plane needs to be guided to cut the piece being trimmed at the desired angle. Most of the time this will be at 90° or 45°.
Components of a shooting board
The template for this style of shooting board is a piece of ply with at least one perfect 90° corner. Strictly speaking, the edges don’t need to be square to the face of the board; it helps, but it’s not imperative.
The other important component is a back stop, or fence, with square and parallel sides. When cutting the components, take your time and cut them accurately. Orientate them so that the back stop butts up tightly against one of the square sides of the ply template. Now you have the makings of a reliable 90° shooter.
Lining things up
I have an abundant supply of threaded inserts left over from when I used to make loudspeaker cabinets. They were often specified as anchor points for the drivers, including a whole host of other fittings that require a firm fixing. They are also an effective way to secure the top face to the base face.
To do this you’ll need a pillar drill, or similar equipment, and a good supply of 1–2mm drill bits. Alternatively, each time you want to join two pieces together, clamp them in place and drill a pilot hole through both pieces at the same time. Then use the pilot hole as a guide to drill clearance holes, blind holes and friction holes to suit.
Festool slot cutter
If you like using electric tools, there’s a quick and easy way to cut a slot for the through bolts using a Festool Domino. If the joining component is wider than the depth of bore, simply draw a line across the face of the board and cut the Domino slot from both sides, referencing from the face.
Allowing for wear
Like all jigs, shooting boards suffer from wear through use. As such, a shooting board that is easily dismantled will enable you to replace worn components in the future. The back stop tends to suffer the most, so attaching it with slots means you can maintain a clean edge for longer before having to make a new component.
Micro adjustments
Make adjustments by slipping anything from a post-it-note to a pencil behind the workpiece to change the angle.
Summary
And there you have it. A trusty, nifty little shooting board to guarantee that your end grain cuts are accurate and true, every time. They are relatively simple to make with a few basic tools. As featured in this design, designing your shooting board so it can be taken apart will enable each worn component to be easily replaced – avoiding the need to build a new shooing board every time.
This configuration has been specifically designed for its portability, so if you’re a woodworker that likes to travel, you can take this jig with you to workshops, demonstrations or if helping a friend.