Wood Carving: A Flower

This article is an extract from Chip Carving

At first glance, this pattern does not seem very complex. In fact it is, but the difficulty lies in the sequence of carving the triangles and in the sizes of the triangles themselves – they are long and relatively large.

Tools and materials

• Basswood board (at least 100-120mm square and 15mm thick)
• 0.5mm mechanical pencil with H or HB lead
• Ruler
• Compass
• Skew knife
• Sandpaper or leather strips for sharpening

Drawing process

If you would prefer to transfer this pattern to the basswood board, the template is on page 169, and guidelines on page 12. Otherwise, if you prefer to draw the pattern directly on to the basswood board, follow the instructions below.

First draw a square with sides that are 6cm long. Then draw two perpendicular lines that intersect at the centre and two diagonal lines that connect the opposite corners of the square. Mark a dot 2cm from the top right corner of the square 1, then another dot 2.1cm from the point where the vertical perpendicular line divides the top side of the square in half 2. Repeat these steps, but mark the first dot 2cm from the top left corner. Measure a radius of 4.8cm and, using a compass, draw curved lines from the resulting points to the opposite quarter 3.

Mark a dot 2.25cm from the top right corner, making it closer to the right side of the square 4. Repeat this in the left quarter. Measure a radius of 3.15cm and, using a compass, draw two short lines from the point where the vertical perpendicular line divides the top line of the square in half, crossing the previously prepared ones 5. Measure a radius of 4.5cm and, by placing the compass on one and then on another prepared dot, draw curved lines on the opposite sides 6.

For the next dots, for the last two curved lines, mark on the horizontal perpendicular line 3mm from the right and left sides of the square 7. Measure a radius of 4.1cm, and draw curved lines on each side of the dots with a compass 8.

To draw the top of the pattern, mark a dot 6mm from the point on the top side of the square, where the vertical perpendicular line divides the top side of the square in half 9. Next, mark a dot 6–7mm on the horizontal perpendicular line from the last/ inner line 10. Repeating the contour of this line, draw a curved line by hand, starting from the top of the pattern and ending at the base. On the other side, the line mirrors the one on the left: starting from the central perpendicular line, make short dashed lines from top to bottom measuring the width of the semi-oval on the left 11. Connect all the resulting dots together into a single line 12.

Now draw the bases of the long triangles. Measure a radius of 4.1cm for the first outer triangles. Starting from the base of the pattern, draw short curved lines, using a compass, on one triangle and on the other side 13. For the second triangle, measure a radius of 4.4cm and, starting from the base of the pattern, draw short curved lines with a compass on the second triangle and the other side 14. For the third and last triangle, measure a radius of 4.75cm and, starting from the base of the pattern, draw short curved lines on one triangle and on the triangle on the other side 15.

Next, draw a triangle at the bottom of the pattern; this one has no base. Mark a dot on the central perpendicular line 1.1cm from the base of the pattern 16, then mark two dots on the right and left sides of the central sharp oval, 1.6cm from the base of the pattern 17. Connect the resulting dots together 18.

Now, draw the lines for additional stop cuts inside the long triangles. Divide each triangle in half 19, then from the top, where the bases of the triangles are, mark the dots 4mm from each base 20. Connect these dots with the bases, then, inside all the triangles, connect the short lines together.

Return to the central oval and decorate it with additional curved lines. By eye, starting from the deepest point of the bottom triangle, mark short lines 4–5mm from each other on the right and left sides of the oval. Connect them by hand with a dot marked on the central perpendicular line (the deepest point of the triangle) 22, 23.

The pattern is ready for carving.

Carving process

Where to start?

Which triangle do you need to start carving from? If you answered the outer triangles, then read my recommendations for carving the previous pattern (see page 69). I suggest starting with the outer triangles, because the next ones are a little longer and cover them with one side.

First, make stop cuts inside all the triangles of the pattern. Since the triangles are long, you will not be able to do this simply by pushing the knife tip deep into the wood and lowering the heel. To make the stop cuts, place the knife tip in the deepest place and lower the heel. Do not remove the knife from the wood, but lead it, perpendicular to the surface of the wood, to the top of the triangle to avoid cutting the stop cuts right up to the place where the triangles are joined together. Also make stop cuts inside the triangle without a base, which is in the central oval at the very bottom 24.

Undercut one of the outer triangles from the outside at a 45-degree angle, starting from the base of the triangle and gently moving to its top (where the triangles are connected together) 25.

Next, undercut the short side/ base and then the second long side, starting from the top of the triangle, following the grain direction 26. Repeat these steps on the opposite outer triangle. Finish undercutting it from the inside, starting from the top of the triangle, gently but surely leading your knife to the base of the triangle 27, 28.

Start undercutting the next triangle, beginning from the outer side (the one that connects to one of the sides of the previous triangle). Gently, with the knife tip, lead the knife to its top 29, then undercut the base of the triangle and then the second long side, starting from the top 30. Carve the second opposite triangle 31.

The next triangle is even longer than the previous two, and in this case the side, which is partially common to the previous triangle, is slightly rounded. I suggest undercutting it this way: find the most curved place on the outside common side. Place the knife at an angle of 45 degrees, and start undercutting the facet from that position 32. When the undercut is made, rotate the board, change the knife grip in your hand and finish undercutting the rest of the facet to the base of the triangle, also starting at the most curved place 33. Finish cutting the triangle, first cutting the base and then the second long side, starting from the top 32, 35.

Then carve the opposite third triangle using the same steps 36. Now carve the last triangle without the base at the very bottom of the design, also keeping the knife at a 45-degree angle 37, 38.

Next, start cutting the lines in the central oval, making cuts straight along the lines perpendicular to the surface of the wood 39. Avoid cutting up to the point where the lines connect together 40. Then carve the opposite third triangle on the right.

Then start undercutting the lines about 1mm on the right and on the left from them 41, 42. Now mark the top of the oval using undercuts at an angle of 65 degrees on each side of the lines 43.

The carving is now complete 44.

Carving large chips

When it comes to carving these relatively large chips, the main thing (apart from the fact that the tool must be sharp) is to keep the knife at the correct angle and to confidently lead the knife to undercut a facet. If you undercut and lead your knife unconfidently, then the inner facet of the triangle (or the chip you are carving) will form wavy lines instead of being straight and smooth.